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Humane Handling

by Lisa Ward | Oct 31, 2007

Step-by-Step Guides to TNR for Adult Feral Cats & Taming Feral Kittens

What is a feral cat? 

A feral cat is a cat who lives his or her life outdoors, with little or no direct human contact. Most have never known anything other than an outside existence; they have typically descended from a long line of feral predecessors. Feral cats avoid human contact, and cannot be touched by strangers. 

Feral cats deserve our help to have the best life possible under their challenging circumstances. Trapping, Neutering, and Returning (TNR) is the most humane and effective way of controlling feral cat populations. A well-planned and executed TNR program helps to create stable colonies, which in turn helps to curtail the overall feline overpopulation problem, reducing the total number of homeless cats. 

Why TNR? 

 

  • You can’t create a vacuum. Feral cat colonies typically form because there is a food source and/or some form of shelter. If ferals are removed from an area, other cats will quickly discover this, and move in to take advantage of the available resources. Permanently removing feral cats therefore only temporarily solves the problem. 
  • TNR has been used with success across the U.S. and all over the world, and is the preferred method of control for feral cat populations in England, Denmark and many other forward-thinking countries.
  • TNR is more cost-effective than trapping and killing feral cats. The average cost of sterilization is $35, while the average cost of euthanasia is $105. Plus, as mentioned above, killing feral cats does not get rid of them permanently; more cats simply move in and take up residence, replacing those who were removed. 
  • Feral cat colonies that are vaccinated and sterilized pose no rabies threat to humans (raccoons, skunks, and bats are the most common carriers of rabies) and will deter other feral cats from moving into the area. 
  • A managed feral colony (one which is supplied with food by dedicated caregivers) poses less of a threat to local wildlife populations as they are regularly fed. 

1. OBTAIN HUMANE TRAPS 

Humane traps can be purchased from many sources. Tomahawk Live Trap (http://www.livetrap.com) sells a variety of sizes, as well as transfer cages. The trap which works best is a Deluxe Transfer Trap, which has a rear sliding door. Having your own traps and transfer cages is definitely a worthwhile investment if you foresee doing multiple TNR projects. If you do not own traps and do not want to purchase them, many local shelters do offer traps for rent. PAWS Chicago rents out traps for a refundable deposit (credit card or personal check) and will fully refund your deposit upon the return of the trap(s). Call 773-521-SPAY (7729) to learn more and arrange to pick up a trap. 

2. SCHEDULE SPAY/NEUTER APPOINTMENTS 

While an appointment for surgery at the PAWS Chicago Lurie Clinic is not mandatory, we appreciate your making an appointment if at all possible. Cats must be at least 2 months old and weigh 2 lbs. or more. PAWS Chicago offers free surgery for feral cats with a $17 charge for ear tipping, vaccinations, deworming and other services. Call 773-521-SPAY (7729) to learn more and schedule your appointments. 

3. PREPARE THE TRAPS 

At your trapping location, unlatch the trap’s rear door, and remove it so you can reach inside. Fold a newspaper lengthwise and place it inside the bottom of the trap. Place approximately one tablespoon of bait (sardines, tuna, or “kitty junk food” like Friskies) along the very back of the trap, then drizzle some juice from the bait along the trap towards the entrance in a zigzag pattern. Place about one-fourth teaspoon of bait in the middle of the trap on the trip-plate, and one-fourth teaspoon about six inches inside the front of the trap. The cat will move along the length of the bait trail to spring the trap. It is important not to leave too much bait in the front or middle; this may satisfy the cat and he will eat and depart without setting off the trap.

4. SET THE TRAP 

Place the trap on stable ground and “set” it. Try to think like a cat and place the trap in a tempting spot. If someone has been feeding in the area, placing the trap where the food is normally left is a good strategy. Cover the trap with a large towel and retreat to a distance to wait and watch (ferals are unlikely to enter a trap if you are standing nearby). Be patient. It may take the cat some time to discover the trap and go in. Make sure the trap is sprung and the cat securely trapped before you approach; if you reappear too soon, you may frighten the cat away. NEVER leave the area entirely with traps still set. A cat (or any other animal) who springs the trap and is caught inside is totally vulnerable. If for some reason you are unsuccessful, dismantle the set trap and come back to try again the next day. 

5. PLACE CATS IN HOLDING AREA 

You will need to organize a place to keep the trapped cat until you drop him off for his clinic appointment. Make sure this is a dry, warm, safe place. A basement or isolated room is ideal. Never leave a trapped cat outdoors in any kind of excessively hot or cold weather. A simple guideline: If it is too hot/cold outside for you, then it is too hot/cold for the cat. Ideally you should trap in the evening, so you’ll only need to keep the cat in the trap overnight at the longest. Don’t be alarmed if the cat is thrashing around inside the trap—this is normal. Keeping the trap covered will help to keep the cat as calm as possible. 

6. BRING CATS TO SPAY/NEUTER CLINIC 

The PAWS Chicago Lurie Family spay/neuter clinic is located at 3516 W. 26th St. Drop off time is between 6:45 and 9:00 a.m. Pick up time is between 4:00-5:30 p.m. After surgery, allow the cat to recover overnight inside the trap, still covered. Female cats usually need to be held for 24 to 48 hours after surgery. Male cats can be returned to the trapping site 12 to 24 hours following surgery as long as they are fully awake and do not require further medical attention. Make sure all cats are fully conscious and alert before release. 

7. RETURN 

Release the cat in the same place you trapped him. Open the front or rear door of the trap, then walk away. Do not be concerned if the cat hesitates a few moments before leaving. He is simply re-orienting himself to his surroundings. Always return cats to the same location where you trapped them; releasing them into a different area can endanger their lives, as they will try to return to their previous home, possibly becoming lost, or attempting to cross major roads to get there. If a feral colony absolutely must be relocated (i.e., their existing location is being made uninhabitable), it is possible to do this, but there are additional steps you need to take. Please contact PAWS Chicago at 773.521.1408 ext. 226 for additional guidance if you discover a colony which needs to be relocated. Visit Alley Cat Allies’ website at www.alleycat.org for comprehensive information on TNR.

Taming Feral Kittens

The process of taming kittens can take from 2 to 6 weeks (longer for some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions! 

1. CONTAINMENT 

A feral kitten may hiss and ‘spit’ at humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared, but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably try to escape if given the chance. ALL BITES ARE SERIOUS. IF BITTEN, WASH OUT THE BITE THOROUGHLY WITH SOAP AND WATER AND MONITOR THE AREA CLOSELY. SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION IF NECESSARY. 

Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. If a trap was used to capture the kittens, transfer them to a cage large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow the kittens to escape during the transfer process. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box. A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them if you force them out. If you do utilize a bedroom to house the kittens, kitten proof the space as best you can—block any nooks where frightened kittens may enter and become inaccessible to you. Protect vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from curious kittens. For the first two days, do not attempt handling. The kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist touching. Always move slowly. Use a t-shirt or something else you’ve worn as the kittens’ bedding to get them used to your scent. 

2. HANDLING 

After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite. 

If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten’s body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food offered from a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible. 

Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you. Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens. 

Play with the kittens using “kitty tease” toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don’t leave the “kitty tease” alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow string. This can be fatal. 

3. CONTAINMENT II 

Each kitten will develop at a different rate. As they get more socialized, they should have free access to the room; place them in the cage only if necessary. 

If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the baby more frequently and will increase its dependence on you. 

4. EXPOSURE 

When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out.

 5. PLACEMENT 

When the kittens are ready to be placed (they’ve been spayed or neutered, vaccinated, dewormed, etc., in addition to being socialized), they are ready for placement. You’ve put a lot of time and effort into rescuing and taming these kittens, so be sure to take the time to speak at length with, and carefully screen, potential guardians. Establish with them that you’ll be checking in with them for follow up to see how the kittens are doing...you want the kittens to have safe, stable and responsible homes that they will have for life!