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Basic Needs
Lifetime Commitment
Adopting your dog is a lifelong commitment.
Animals develop a bond with you and your family.
Dogs are sensitive to their environment; major
changes such as switching owners and households
can be dramatic and very stressful. You need
to make sure you are ready to provide food,
water, shelter, medical care and love throughout
the life of your dog – this could be for 10
to 15 years. Dogs mature and age at much different
rates; usually according to size and breed.
It is commonly held that dogs age 7 years for
every year that a human does. However, this
serves as only a rough guide when converting
and calculating your dog’s age as dogs grow
up very rapidly in their early years and then
slow down. It is generally believed that
the smaller dog breeds, the longer they live.
Larger breeds, such as Great Danes and Wolfhounds,
rarely live beyond 9 years.
You also need to make sure
you are committed to keeping your dog as a trusted
and loved companion as changes occur in your
life (moving, pregnancy, job changes, etc.)
There are many resources to utilize during these
times of change that can make transitions smooth
and comfortable for everyone.
No matter what age or how
healthy you are, make sure you have preparations
made for your dog if you become unable to care
for him. This information should be incorporated
into your will, or at minimum, a letter should
be kept with your important papers. Make sure
the caretaker knows they are responsible for
your dog and that they should be contacted if
something should happen. For a donation,
PAWS Chicago’s Guardian Angel program will make
sure your dog is cared for and finds another
loving home if something should happen to you.
An Enriching Environment
You need to make sure there
are plenty of positive stimuli in your dog’s
environment. This would include changing out
his toys, giving him treats that may or may
not involve a challenge, playing with and petting
him frequently, and giving him plenty of outside
time but ultimately being kept inside as a part
of the family. Dogs are pack animals; it is
important to make them feel like part of the
pack (your family). You should spend 15
- 30 minutes, 3 times a day walking and playing
with your dog at the very least. Always
make sure you pet and praise your dog whenever
you have the chance, even if it is a quick pat.
Sufficient Funds for
Care
The average cost of care
for one dog is $800 -$1,000 per year. This includes
basic supplies and routine medical care. Emergency
care or care for an illness can cost from $250
- $2,000. Care for a serious illness can cost
in the area of $5,000.
Exercise
Dogs need plenty of exercise
and socialization. Dogs enjoy a long walk in
the park, visiting with the neighborhood dogs,
riding in the car or sitting with you outside
of the local coffee shop. A sufficient amount
of exercise will prevent many unwanted behaviors.
A tired dog is often a good dog! Each
type of dog has different needs; it important
to understand if your dog is a working dog,
a retriever, or a herder and then develop an
exercise routine that matches his personality.
Today, there are many options to make sure your
dog gets plenty of stimulation and exercise;
these includes dog parks, agility courses, dog
walking services and day care. When exercising
your dog, keep in mind that young puppies cannot
handle much more then a walk around the block.
Young puppies should not go running. At
around 1 year of age, your dog can begin running
with you. Animals, like humans, need to
build up to longer, more intense exercise regimes.
As your dog approaches his geriatric years,
it is important to then decrease exercise and
not force your geriatric dog to keep the same
activity level he had during his prime.
Potty training
Your puppy will not automatically
know it is inappropriate to soil in the house.
It is your job to teach him. Regardless
of age and background, housetraining is attainable
for all dogs. Proper training requires
time, patience, and consistency on your part.
Some dogs will pick up housetraining easily,
while others may take more time.
Several strategies exist
for potty training: crate, paper, pads, litter
box, etc. Crate training is often the best choice-
while learning not to soil in the house, your
dog also learns to accept the crate as a safe,
secure area. Dogs instinctively want a safe
"den," or resting area and usually learn not
to soil it. Many crate trained dogs will be
less anxious when kenneled for any reason -
at the groomer, veterinarian, or boarding facility,
because they are familiar with a crate or kennel
environment. In order to accomplish these
positive feelings about the crate, you should
make sure the crate is a very comfortable place
for your dog. Place a soft blanket inside
and a favorite toy (that doesn’t have any pieces
that can be swallowed). Give your dog
treats when he is in the crate and don’t
only have him go in the crate when you leave.
The crate is a great tool to use when you need
a break while at home (making dinner, cleaning
the house, etc.) Never, ever use the crate
for punishment. You want your dog to associate
the crate with positive feelings.
It is very important to
choose a crate size and type that is appropriate
for your dog and use the crate properly.
Your dog should be able to stand up, turn around,
and lie down comfortably in the crate.
You also want to make sure the crate is not
too big. If your dog can eliminate on
one side of the crate, and lay down on the other,
the purpose of the crate (which is to not allow
the dog to eliminate in his resting area) is
defeated. Do not leave young puppies crated
all day. Puppies 6-8 weeks old should be crated
for no more than 4 hours at a time. As the puppy
grows, crating time can gradually be lengthened.
The general rule is the puppy can be crated
for however many months old they are, plus one
hour. So for a 5 month old puppy, he can
be created for 6 hours. Paper or litter
box training is appropriate for small dogs that
will not have regular access to the outdoors.
This is a great option if you live in a high
rise building.
Regardless of what training
strategy you use, your dog should immediately
be taken to the designated area immediately
upon waking in the morning, then frequently
throughout the day, and finally, right before
bedtime. If you have a puppy, he
will also need to go out prior to playing, after
playing or eating, and as many other times as
you can. Be sure to also watch your dog’s body
language. Behaviors such as pacing, whining,
circling, excessive sniffing or squatting indicate
that your dog may need to eliminate. If you
catch your dog exhibiting any of these behaviors,
interrupt the dog and immediately take him outside.
If he eliminates outside, praise him profusely
and give him a treat.
If your dog/puppy has an
“accident” somewhere other then the designated
area, immediately clean it up using an odor
remover (so he doesn’t feel compelled to go
in that area again). If you catch your puppy
in the act of having an "accident", take him
immediately to the designated soil area. Never
discipline or punish the puppy if you find an
"accident" after the fact. He will not
understand what the scolding is for. The
act of punishing a dog for having an accident
in the house can bring about behavior problems.
Plan to crate your dog
or puppy while you are away for as long as it
takes until you feel comfortable leaving them
with the run of the house. For most puppies,
this will occur around 1 year of age.
Obedience Training
Every dog deserves a great
start, which is why it is highly encouraged
that you attend a dog training class as soon
as possible after getting your dog. Regardless
of age, breed, or where you got the dog from,
every dog and owner can benefit from training.
Attending an obedience training class is crucial
in preventing future behavior problems by socializing
dogs, developing the human to animal bond, rewarding
them for appropriate behavior, and teaching
basic commands that will help you and your dog
communicate for a lifetime. Obedience training
is not only for the dog, it’s for the owner
too. So be sure to take your dog to an
obedience training class where you are a part
of the training. “Boot camp” type training
can be appropriate with more difficult training
issues. If you adopt a puppy, you should
sign up for a “Puppy Preschool Socialization
Class” right away. Puppy classes begin for puppies
as early as 10-16 weeks, when puppies are in
their crucial socialization period. Training
continues for the life of your puppy, and we
encourage you to continue to take classes to
educate yourself and your dog to ensure that
you will both live many happy years together.
Secured Traveling
It is very dangerous to
drive with a dog in the back of a pick-up truck.
Not only can he be accidentally thrown from
a truck as the driver swerves or stops, but
flying debris can injure or kill your dog. It
is recommended that any animal traveling in
a vehicle be placed in a secured area (such
as a crate, carrier, dog seatbelt, or the back
of your car if it has a wall so they cannot
get projected into the front seats if you have
to slam on the brakes.)
Never leave your dog unattended
in public (tied to a tree or post while you
go into a store/coffee shop). This is
a perfect opportunity for your dog to get stolen
or mistreated.
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Basic Supplies
Dish Ware
We recommend stainless
steel, glass, or ceramic food and water bowls.
Avoid plastic containers; toxins in the plastic
and the porous material encourage bacterial
build up.
Food
We recommend high quality,
dry dog food twice a day for adult dogs.
Young puppies should start out with frequent
meals (3-4) and eventually move to two meals
a day. Usually, by 4 months of age, a
puppy can begin eating twice a day. Read
the label of your chosen dog food for serving
sizes. (Keep in mind that dog food companies
are in the business of selling dog food!
You might want to feed your dog slightly less
then the recommendation on the label.)
If you are going to change the brand of food,
slowly change it over 1 to 2 weeks. The
weaning process should look something like this:
First few days: 1 part new food, 3 parts old
food
Next few days: half new food, half old food
Final few days: 1 part old food, 3 parts new
food
This will allow your dog’s
system to adjust to the new brand. If they should
vomit or have diarrhea, go back to the original
brand.
Wet food should only be
used in situations where your dog needs to gain
weight or to encourage eating. If the
wet food is simply being used to encourage eating,
mix a small amount of wet food into the dry
food at each meal. Gradually stop adding
the wet food. You can add water to the
dry food to moisten it up and bring out flavor
as you wean the wet food out. Once
you have a healthy, eating dog, there is no
need for wet food.
As your dog ages and gets
into his geriatric years, you will need to switch
him to a senior food that is specially formulated
to be low in fat and salt for a healthy heart,
lower in calories to help combat obesity since
they are less active, lower in protein to help
the kidneys and liver, and higher in fiber for
the bowels to prevent constipation.
Water
Your dog should always
have access to fresh water – changed at least
2 times a day. We recommend filtered,
purified, or bottled water. Dogs, like humans,
are impacted when impurities and toxins are
found in their drinking water.
Places to Sleep
Every dog needs to have
at least one bed. If you have enough room, you
can have a bed in the bedroom where you sleep
and in the main room where you spend most of
your time. If your dog has his own bed, he is
less likely to want to sleep on the furniture
or in bed. A dog’s bed is a source of comfort.
If he is going to be in a strange environment,
you should try to take his bed.
Leashes & Collars
Dogs should have a buckle
collar that has an id tag and a rabies tag.
You should be able to put two fingers between
the collar and the dog’s neck. If it’s too tight,
you may end up choking the dog; if it’s too
loose the dog can slip out. Make sure
your dog’s collar is fit properly at all times.
There are a variety of training collars on the
market. Consult your vet or a trainer
to see if a training collar such as a Gentle
Leader or a Martingale Collar is right for your
dog.
The leash should be 4 to
6 feet long so that you can retain control of
the dog. Retractable leashes are not recommended
as they do not give you as much control over
your dog. In public, your dog should be
on a leash at all times. Even the best trained
dogs, can be scared and run out into traffic.
If you have a fenced in yard, obviously your
dog can be off leash but you need to make sure
the gate or door is closed at all times and
there are no gaps in the fence so the dog cannot
run out.
Toys
Toys are a great way to
provide your dog with the mental and physical
stimulation that make for a happier and healthier
pet. There are a variety of different toys available
today. You will need to experiment with
a variety of toys to discover your dog’s preference.
PAWS Chicago highly recommends Kong brand toys
and other toys that involve a mental challenge.
A Kong is a hollow toy that you fill with treats
and top of with a dollop of peanut butter.
(There are even Kong recipes online!) Your dog
has to lick away the peanut butter and bat the
Kong around so that the treats inside fall out.
You can even freeze the Kong for a longer activity.
Kongs are a great mental challenge for your
dog and can keep him occupied for a long time
depending on how much of a “Kong expert” they
are/become.
If your dog enjoys tearing
apart toys, make sure he does not get to the
“squeaker” that is often inside a toy.
Your dog can choke on the squeaker. Be
cautious of what toys you leave in the dogs
crate while you are away as well. Rope toys,
or toys that don’t have any part a dog can swallow,
are best.
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Socialization
Why Socialize?
If the world was perfect,
we could protect our dogs from negative, anxious
and frightening situations. In the real world,
we must help our dogs learn how to cope and
respond, in a healthy and acceptable manner,
to the spectrum of people, animals, places,
etc. they might encounter along the road of
life. By exposing our dogs to different
kinds of people, animals, and environments,
we can help them develop confidence and ease.
No matter when you adopt your dog, you can apply
canine socialization principles to help him
be a more stable, happy, trustworthy companion.
Socialization does not end at puppy hood. While
the foundation for good behavior is laid during
the first few months (and these are a very important
couple of months as puppies are learning what
to accept and what to fear), good owners encourage
and reinforce social skills throughout the dog's
life. Socialization should continue for as long
as possible until your dog greets every new
person or situation with confidence and ease
(this could take months or years).
Often times, undersocialized
dogs will become fearful of what they have never
seen/met. They will act aggressively towards
a certain type of person, animal, or experience.
In order to avoid this, you will need to expose
your dog to as many experiences as possible
in your beginning time with him.
People
Dogs and puppies depend
on you to make sure they are exposed to as many
different people as possible, especially in
the first few months of their lives. The
more exposure they get to a wide variety of
people, the more likely they are to be happy
and well adjusted. By the age of 12 weeks,
your puppy should be introduced to at least
100 people. Try to bring your puppy with
you to as many places as possible or maybe have
a party at your house so he can start meeting
people right away. Make sure you have
your puppy meet people of different ethnicities
and ages, as well as people wearing/using a
variety of items (baseball hats, costumes, wheelchairs,
bicycles, dark coats, glasses, etc.)
If you're bringing a new
adult dog into your home, your major concern
is to check out how well socialized the dog
is and to strengthen any weak spots. For example,
if you find that this dog is a bit uncomfortable
with men in hats, then you must make a concerted
effort to help your new dog to learn to love
men wearing hats.
Experiences
As with socializing your
dog to people, it is also of utmost importance
to expose your dog to a wide variety of experiences
as well. You will want to make sure you
have treats on hand in the beginning so your
dog will connect new experiences with good things
(treats!) Some of the experiences you
will want your dog to get used to as early as
possible are bathing, clipping nails, going
to the vet, buses passing by, bicyclists passing
by, walking on a leash, getting groomed,
people walking by, and noises of everyday life.
You want to praise any good behaviors (sniffing,
walking calmly, sitting politely) with a treat.
Undesirable behaviors should be ignored while
trying to redirect your dog’s attention to you.
Often times a dog whose
only outside time is in a fenced in backyard
become undersocialized. As mentioned,
dogs need to experience a wide variety of people
and situations. If the only interactions
a dog has is with your family and friends in
your backyard, he is likely to miss some great
socializing opportunities. Make sure that
even if you have a fenced in backyard, you still
take your dog on walks to meet the neighborhood
sounds, people, and animals.
Animals
Your dog is going to encounter
a lot of other animals (dogs, cats, squirrels,
birds, rabbits, etc.) in his life, so he needs
to be ready for those experiences. The
key is to allow your dog to experience meeting
these other animals as often as possible, and
rewarding good behavior.
Puppies will probably already have some experience
with other dogs from being in a litter.
With older dogs you really don’t know what you’re
dealing with in terms of past socialization.
They may have already accumulated negative experiences
with other dogs. So it is important with
older dogs to take it slow and start off finding
out what he is and is not comfortable with.
Some great ways to socialize your dog to other
dogs are through obedience classes, doggy day
cares, and dog parks. Be sure you know
how your dog behaves before taking him to a
dog park. Not all dogs are “dog park dogs”.
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Grooming
Socialization to Grooming
Grooming sessions should
always be fun, so be sure to schedule them when
your dog’s relaxed, especially if he is the
excitable type. Until your pet is comfortable
being groomed, keep the sessions short—just
5 to 10 minutes. Gradually lengthen the time
until it becomes routine for your dog. You can
help him get comfortable being touched and handled
by making a habit of petting every single part
of your dog, including such potentially sensitive
areas as the ears, tail, belly, back and feet.
Most importantly of all--pile on the praise
and offer your pooch a treat when the session
is finished!
Trimming Nails
Your dog's nails should
just barely touch the ground when he walks.
If your dog’s nails are clicking on the floor
or getting snagged in the carpet, it's time
to trim his nails. Your vet or groomer
should show you how to trim your dog’s nails
the first time. They can also help you
decide which type of trimmer would work best
for your dog. You should always use trimmers
designed for pets that are very sharp.
When trimming, start at the tip of the nail
and snip a little. Look at the cut edge of the
nail. When you start to see pale pink tissue
near the top of the cut edge, stop. Avoid cutting
into the quick, which contains nerves and blood
vessels. It is painful and will bleed easily.
On white nails, the quick is the pink section.
Be extra careful when cutting dark nails, because
the quick is difficult to see. If the tip of
the nail begins to bleed, apply pressure using
styptic powder or a substitute such as baby
powder, flour, or cotton. Avoid wiping
the blood clot off the tip of the nail once
the bleeding has stopped. Remember to trim the
dewclaw nail, on the inside of the leg. Since
it doesn't touch the ground, it wears down less
rapidly than the others. Trim nails once or
twice a month. The quick will lengthen if you
don't trim the nail regularly, and long nails
can cause traction problems or become ingrown.
Brushing
Regular grooming with a
brush or comb will help keep your pet’s hair
in good condition by removing dirt, spreading
natural oils throughout her coat, preventing
tangles and keeping his skin clean and irritant-free.
Also, grooming time is a great time to check
for fleas and flea dirt - those little black
specks that indicate your pet is playing host
to a flea family. Different brushes and
brushing techniques are used for different breeds.
Check with your vet to see what type of brush
you should use, how often you should brush your
dog, and what process you should use for brushing
your dog.
Bathing
You should bath your dog
every 3 months or so. Always use a mild,
dog formula shampoo (never human shampoo).
Before you bath your dog, give him a good brushing
to remove all dead hair and mats. Then,
place a rubber bath mat in the bathtub to provide
secure footing, and fill the tub with about
3 to 4 inches of lukewarm water. Use a
spray hose, pitcher, or cup to thoroughly wet
your pet, taking care not to spray directly
in his ears, eyes or nose. Next, gently
massage in the label’s recommended amount of
shampoo, working from head to tail. Finally,
thoroughly rinse out all the shampoo, again,
avoiding the ears, eyes and nose. Dry your pet
with a large towel; don’t use a hair dryer on
your pet as it will dry out his skin and can
cause irritation.
Dental Hygiene
Home dental care is the
first line of defense against periodontal disease
in dogs, and the biggest weapon is the toothbrush.
The brushing action of the toothbrush removes
plaque. Ideally, brushing should be done daily,
but a minimum of 3 to 5 times weekly is recommended.
You should use a soft bristled toothbrush and
veterinary approved dog formula toothpaste,
not human toothpaste. Beef or chicken flavored
toothpastes work well.
You should make brushing your pet's teeth
a positive experience. Start early with your
puppy if possible. The first step in the process
is to have your pet get used to having you handle
him around his mouth. When first touching the
mouth you could put a tasty treat on your finger
to make the experience positive for your pet.
Once your pet is comfortable with this, begin
rubbing the gums. Then gradually increase the
time you spend playing with the mouth.
Adult teeth start to come through when the
puppy is between 4 and 7 months of age (you
will find your dog’s puppy teeth on your floor
if you look closely.) Some dogs, especially
adult dogs that were not socialized to the toothbrushing
process as a puppy, won't allow their owners
to brush their teeth. Other than tooth brushing,
several other approaches are available which
may also help prevent dental disease. These
include gels and rinses that are rubbed on the
gums and treats, such as rawhides. There are
also diets formulated to help reduce plaque;
ideally these should be used along with brushing
your dog's teeth, not instead of.
Ear Cleaning
Caring for your pets’ ears is an important
way to reduce the chance of ear infections and
excess wax build up. Routine cleaning and at
home examinations let you detect any infections
or other problems early. Prompt treatment offers
a better prognosis, reduces the potential for
chronic disease or hearing loss, and gives earlier
relief for any discomfort your dog may have.
Ear cleaning starts with good general grooming.
Excess, dirty, or matted hair should be removed
from around the ear canal and the ear flap.
To clean the inside of your dog’s ears, start
by using a dog formulated ear cleaner. Soak
a cotton ball thoroughly in the ear wash. Squeeze
out excess ear wash. Place the cotton ball in
your dog's ear and gently rub up and down. Allow
your dog to shake off excess moisture. This
is important for preventing ear infections.
If the ear canal looks abnormal, clean only
the outside and consult a vet. How often you
will need to clean depends on your dog’s breed,
hair coat, activities, age, and the amount of
ear wax he produces. Most dogs with normal ears
should have a cleaning at least once a month.
Others may need more frequent cleanings, especially
those that swim or get their ears wet regularly.
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Body Language
Reading Canine Body
Postures
While dogs cannot speak
our languages, they do display their state of
mind via their body language. By taking careful
note of ear position, pupil dilation, facial
tension (particularly around the muzzle and
forehead), tail carriage and body weight distribution,
an observer can detect whether a dog is relaxed
or fearful, or acting in a submissive or dominant
manner toward the observer.
Neutral Relaxed
A neutral, relaxed dog
will have the following body positions: head
erect, ears up, tail relaxed and wagging, weight
distributed evenly over all four feet, and a
relaxed mouth that is slightly open.
Arousal
An aroused dog will have
the following body positions: eyes large and
staring hard, ears up and forward, tail up and
bristled with a stiff wag, stiff legs with the
weight over the front legs, and a tense muzzle
with lips lifted to display teeth. An
aroused dog is stimulated by something in the
environment. When the dog is excited by
something pleasurable, the hackles (the erectile
hairs along the back of the neck) will be down
and the tail will be carried a little lower
and will loosely wag. The muzzle will
be relaxed and the tongue may be seen.
This posture may be displayed to subordinates
in order to express higher ranking pack position.
Aggressive Attack
dog that is about to attack
will have the following body positions: ears
erect and tilted forward, hackles may be up,
tail stiff and raised, weight forward, teeth
bared and snarling, lips curled, and eyes staring.
This threatening posture is used to chase away
another animal or to protect possessions, pack,
or self.
Active Submission
An actively submissive
dog will have the following body positions:
ears back, tail hanging low and slowly wagging,
a raised paw, mouth clearly closed with the
tip of the tongue darting out, and eyes half
closed and blinking. This pacifying posture
is used when a dog acknowledges another dog
or human’s higher social ranking, or to inhibit
another’s aggression. A submissive dog
may greet a more dominant dog with a muzzle
nudge, a lick, or a tongue flick as an appeasement
(pacifying) gesture.
Passive Submission
A passively submissive
dog will have the following body positions:
ears back, lying on back with belly exposed,
tail tucked, releasing urine droplets, and a
head turned away with an indirect gaze.
This surrendering position is offered to a more
dominant or aggressive individual.
Defensive Aggression
A defensively aggressive
dog will have the following body positions:
ear back, pupils dilated, hackles may be up,
tail down and tensed, posture mildly crouched,
weight over rear legs, and a tense, wrinkled,
snarling muzzle with teeth exposed. When
fearful, a dog will give warming signals to
indicate that he does not wish to be approached.
If unheeded, he will bite to protect himself.
Dog to Dog Communication
When dogs meet other dogs,
they signal their status in relation to each
other. Actions like raising a forepaw,
looking away, licking or nudging at the other’s
muzzle or bowing with the forelegs, are submissive
gestures. Mounting, raising up stiffly
on one’s toes, or placing one’s head over another’s
withers (the place where the neck meets the
back) indicate the more dominate individual
of that interaction. Dogs also sniff each
other’s genital regions when greeting to gather
information on sexual status.
Maternal Correction
In a maternal correction
the mother dog quickly snarls and places her
mouth around the muzzle or head of the puppy.
The puppy submits by flattening to the ground
and whimpering. The puppy will tuck it’s
tail and raise it’s paw. The mother dog
is disciplining the dog with a quick muzzle
grasp and the pup learns to offer submissive
body postures.
Play Solicitation
The play bow is a combination
of dominant and submissive gestures. It
is offered to invite another to play or as part
of courtship behavior. A dog that is soliciting
play will have the following body positions:
ears up, tail up and loosely wagging, eyes soft,
mouth open and relaxed, tongue exposed, front
end lowered and ready to leap forward.
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Introducing a New Dog into
your Household
Households with a Dog
First of all, you need
to realize that your dog will not always get
along with every other dog. Dogs are like
people; they are drawn to some, while others
may take some getting used to, and still others
may not ever get along (they may tolerate each
other but won’t be the best of friends)Also, prior to introducing a new dog into your
family, you need to be ready to accept changes
in your current dog. As hard as it may
be to watch an animal you thought of as dominant
take a lesser position in the household, it
is vital that you step back and let the animals
determine their social status. Your current
dog may be quite relieved to relinquish the
stressful position of leader to a new dog.
Unless you believe that one of the animals may
be inured, let them work things out and then
accept the structure they establish. Here
is how you should introduce them:
- Make sure you
pick a neutral, quiet place, where there
are not toys or treats, to introduce
them
- Feed and exercise
both dogs and allow them each to go
to the bathroom prior to the introduction
- Make sure both
dogs are leashed and both handlers have
a tight grip on the leashes
- Slowly allow the
dogs to approach each other
- Let the two dogs
sniff each other for several minutes
while that handlers observe the body
language
- Interrupt any
signs of aggression with a spritz of
water, a loud noise, or by pulling the
dogs away from each other by the leashes.
NEVER attempt to separate the dogs with
your hands. This is how a lot
of people get bit.
- If the dogs seem
to enjoy each other, let them play together
for a while.
- Take the dogs
on a long walk together
- Eventually, bring
them both back to your home. Keep
them on the leashes until you are comfortable
with their behavior. Make sure
there are no toys or treats on the floor.
- Gradually introduce
toys to both of the dogs, making sure
there are plenty around (not just one).
- If you are confident
that the dogs are getting along, allow
the dogs to be off leash but supervised.
- Increase the time
they are together until they are fully
trusted to be unleashed together- it
can take days, weeks, or even months
until you feel comfortable.
- Keep the dogs
separated when you are unable to supervise,
until you are confident that no harm
will be done.
Advantages of a Multi
Dog Household
There are many advantages of having a multiple
dog household. Two or more dogs that are
compatible can provide exercise for each other.
This works best when they are of similar size
and activity level (a puppy will only annoy
a laid back adult dog – not “pep him up”), and
are free of physical problems that could cause
pain or irritability. Two or more dogs can also
provide each other with dog-to-dog social interaction.
This daily contact with their own species tends
to keep their ability to communicate with other
dogs in good shape. It also keeps away boredom.
Finally, humans who enjoy watching dog behavior
will enjoy seeing the family dogs interact.
Since you also get to see the dog-to-dog relationships
develop over time, your understanding of your
dogs can grow by watching how they react to
each other. Your ability to read canine body
language can be enhanced.
Households with a Cat
Introducing a dog to a
cat is a much slower process then introducing
a dog to another dog. There is a serious
risk involved if you introduce these two animals
incorrectly. Be sure that you go slow,
and follow all the steps outlined below.
The ultimate goal is to have your cat be confident
that the dog does not pose a threat. Once
this is established, the opportunity for a wonderful
friendship can begin. Here is a how you should
introduce them:
- Keep them separated
for a week or so– when you bring your
new dog home, have a separate space
set up for the cat with a litter box,
toys, water, bed and a scratching post.
A spare bedroom would be perfect.
- Scent is the all-important
factor in cat to dog introductions.
Before letting the pets have visual
contact with each other, let them smell
each other’s bedding.
- Encourage interaction
through the door – Place your cat’s
food near the door of her room so she
stays near the door. Your dog will smell
and hear her through the door. Give
your dog treats near the door of the
new cat’s room so that he associates
it with good things.
- Let the cat roam
alone – Put your dog in the bedroom,
and let the cat roam around the house.
This lets your cat explore and get exercise.
Then put your cat back in her room and
let the dog walk around and smell her
without having to see the new cat. This
is a great way to get them used to each
other’s scent.
- Reward obedience
on the dog’s part with a treat.
- Now it is time
for the introduction. Make sure your
dog is wearing a properly fit collar
and leash. Have another family member
bring in the cat and have them sit down
with the cat on their lap at an opposite
end of the room. Repeat this step several
times until both the cat and the dog
are tolerating each other without signs
of fear or aggression.
-
Next move the animals closer with the
dog still on the leash and the cat gently
held in a lap. If the cat does not like
to be held use a crate or carrier. If
the cat becomes frightened, increase
the distance between the animals and
progress more slowly.
-
Initially, the dog should be wearing
a collar and a leash when the cat is
present so that any attempt to bark
at or chase can be stopped instantly.
Praise and treats should be lavished
on the dog when he is calm and obedient
in the cat’s presence.
Keep the dog and cat separated
when you are not home until you are certain
that the animals are safe around each other
unsupervised. Be sure the cat does not have
to pass through or by the dog’s area to get
to his food, water, or litter box. If your dog
enjoys raiding the litter box, place a gate
across the entrance of the room where the litter
box is kept to allow the cat to pass through
but not the dog.
Households with Children
From the start, children
should be taught how to properly approach a
dog. The child should be taught some basic dog
body language so that they will know to leave
the dog alone when his fur is raised, he is
barring his teeth, his tail is between his legs,
or he is growling. Your child should be
taught how to properly pet a dog, not to pull
its tail or ears, not to run away screaming
from a dog, not to try to play with a sleeping,
eating, or nursing dog, or try to take his toys
or food or treats away. A child should
also not play with a dog unsupervised.
The key to a harmonious household is to supervise
the interactions between the dog and the young
child. Children can share in the responsibility
of caring for your dog; just make sure that
an adult is ultimately responsible for the care
of the dog.
Households with Senior
Citizens
Dogs can make great companions
for senior citizens. The most important thing
for seniors is to make sure they can provide
the care and support required in owning a dog.
This includes being able to walk and manage
the dog. The temperament and size of the dog
needs to be taken into consideration when choosing
a dog for a senior. Also, it is important
for a senior citizen to establish who will take
care of the dog if they become unable to do
so themselves.
Allergies
Controlling allergies takes
some work, but it is definitely doable if someone
is committed to it. The allergens your
pet carries are associated with its skin, hair
follicles, and saliva. Dander, a naturally occurring
combination of skin cells and saliva, is most
often the cause of pet allergies. Dander is
shed from your dog and embeds itself in carpeting,
furniture, and draperies and stays in the environment
for a long time causing allergic reactions.
It is the protein in this dander that causes
the reactions. Some dogs shed more of this dander
then others, making them less tolerable then
other dogs.
The problem of allergies
can be solved by making some minor adjustments
to your environment. People who have allergies
are rarely allergic to just one particular thing.
Since the allergic person is sensitive to more
than one thing, it is the “Total Allergen Level”
that causes a reaction. Whether or not a person
has symptoms depends on how many allergens are
in the environment. An individual who is allergic
to animals may exhibit no noticeable symptoms
when the total exposure is below his allergy
threshold level. The goal should be to minimize
exposure to allergens that exceed your tolerance
threshold and trigger attacks. Air purifiers,
vacuums with air filters, and keeping your environment
clean and free of dust and hair are important
in controlling your allergies. If you
have allergies, you might want to consider not
letting your dog sleep on your pillows or bed.
Feeding a high quality
diet greatly reduces dander production due to
the dog’s skin being healthier. There
are food, treats, and shampoos on the market
that reduce shedding, thus reducing dander production.
There are also de-shedding tools such as the
Furminator that can reduce the allergic reactions
as well.
Talk to your physician
about medications that are available to help
with allergies.
Dog Proof your House
Make sure your house does
not have any items that are harmful to your
dogs. This can include poisonous plants, plastic
bags, and chemical cleaners. Chemicals in household
cleaners can be dangerous to your dog. Please
check the labels. The ASPCA Poison Control Hotline
(888.426.4435) can provide pet owners with additional
and valuable information about household chemicals
and plants that can be harmful to your pets.
If you have a puppy, you will want to make sure
that all your valuables and small items that
the puppy could get into are off the floor.
In Case of Emergency
Make sure you have the
following phone numbers in an easily visible
and accessible place:
- The name, number
and address of your vet – If you are
on vacation, call before you leave to
authorize treatment and payment in case
something happens while you are gone.
- The name, number
and address of the closest emergency
vet (24 hour).
- ASPCA Poison Control
Hotline
- Important medical
information – Medications, allergies,
etc.
- The person’s information
(name, number) of who to call in case
something happens to you.
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Behaviors
Positive Reinforcement
Positive reinforcement
dog training is a humane method of teaching
your dog to perform behaviors using a reward
such as treats, attention, verbal praise, etc.
Rewarding appropriate dog behavior makes that
behavior more likely to occur in the future
and is one of the most powerful tools you can
use to shape or change your dog's actions.
Positive reinforcement dog training
not only teaches your dog what behaviors you
desire in a humane manner, it also creates stronger
bonds between you and your dog.
Attention Seeking Behavior
Attention seeking behavior
is one of the most common canine management
problems. The high social nature of dogs contributes
to attention seeking behavior which can take
the form of pawing, pushing, jumping, mouthing,
barking at, eliminating in front of, or any
other behavior which the dog has deduced will
get your attention. Attention seeking behavior
may be either active or passive, and the attention
it elicits may be either negative or positive.
To prevent attention seeking behavior from
developing, always ask your dog to do
something (sit, stay, come, etc.) before
getting anything (food, walks, attention,
petting, toys, etc.) Ignore any attempts to
get your attention (even negative attention)
through undesirable behavior! This means
that if your dog jumps on you to get your
attention, instead of pushing the dog down,
shrug the dog off and walk away. Do not give
your dog any attention until she has
exhibited a desirable (sit on command)
behavior. Your goal is to teach your dog
acceptable forms of attention getting (such
a sitting, lying quietly, etc.). In order to
succeed, you will need to praise and reward
the dog whenever she is calm and relaxed.
Barking
Many dogs with barking
“problems” are merely exhibiting normal canine
behavior in response to environmental stimuli
(i.e. sights, sounds, and scents). Some breed
types such as terriers and scent hounds have
been bred to bark more readily than others.
Because barking is a self-reinforcing behavior,
it is important to teach you dog what type of
barking you find acceptable right from the start.
To do this, you must first discover what causes
your dog to bark. Solving this problem may be
as simple as eliminating the source. For example,
if your dog barks out the window at other dogs,
you might try leaving the curtains/blinds closed
and using a radio/TV to mask outside sounds.
If your dog barks in your
presence, you can begin to teach him a more
acceptable behavior in place of the barking,
such as sitting on command. You will need to
consistently interrupt (using a stimulus such
as water, a loud noise, head halter, etc.) your
dog as soon as he begins to bark and immediately
redirect him to another activity. As soon as
your dog engages in the acceptable activity,
praise and reward him. Never give your dog any
direct attention (including verbal or physical
corrections) while he is barking. Some dogs
regard even negative attention (such as being
scolded) as desirable.
There are a few quick solutions
to undesirable barking. Ultrasonic anti-bark
collars are not effective on most dogs. The
stimulus of barking is just more rewarding then
the deterrent. “Shock” or “electronic impulse”
collars work by causing pain and can heighten
anxiety. If you need a humane way to control
your dog’s barking when you are away, you may
want to consider a citronella anti-bark collar
(such as the ABS Anti-Bark Collar™). Citronella
collars emit a citrus oil mist in response to
the dog’s bark that discourages the dog from
barking without causing fear or pain. While
you still need to address the cause of your
dog’s barking, citronella collars can be a useful
tool is preventing excessive barking.
Digging
Digging in yards should
be curtailed by constant supervision and plenty
of exercise. Many dogs will dig out of
boredom. If you think this is the case,
increase exercise and play time, and decrease
unsupervised outside time. Some breeds
are bred to dig (many terriers), so redirection
to an allowed digging area should be considered.
Never directly punish your dog for digging.
Remember, for many breeds, this is a very natural
activity. If you can catch your dog in
the middle of digging, interrupt him with an
indirect stimulus, and then redirect him to
acceptable behavior. Praise profusely once he
engages in good behavior.
Mouthing and Chewing
Mouthing and chewing are
most common in young puppies and new dogs in
the household, especially in play and while
teething. It's up to you to teach your puppy
or dog what is acceptable and what is not. First
of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite
before they are 4 months old. Normally, they
would learn this from their mother, their littermates
and other members of the pack. However, sometimes
puppies are taken away from this environment
before the learning is complete, so we must
take over the training. If your dog or
puppy mouths on your hand, make a quick, high
pitched yipping noise to simulate what your
dog’s littermate would do if they mouthed him
too hard. Discontinue any playing and
leave the room; do not look or give any attention
to your dog. Eventually, he will learn
that the mouthing behavior makes playtime and
attention come to a quick stop, which is undesirable
to him.
There are several anti-mouthing
and anti-chewing products on the market.
Apple cider vinegar, mouthwash, and Bitter Apple
spray can all be put on anything you do not
want your dog to mouth or chew on (hands, ankles,
chair legs, etc.) to discourage him from mouthing
or chewing.
To discourage chewing,
make sure you have fully puppy proofed your
house so that nothing valuable or dangerous
is on the dog’s level for him to get in to.
Make sure you constantly supervise your new
dog or puppy so that you can teach him what
is acceptable for him to chew on, and what
is not. Do not let your new dog or
puppy wander around the house getting into
whatever he pleases. Keep your new dog
or puppy with you or safely confined to a
dog friendly area (crate, bathroom, etc.)
Once your dog is has learned what not to
chew on in a room, introduce him to another
room. Do not let your animal have run
of the house until you are sure that it is
safe to do so. Most puppies aren’t
ready for a full run of the house while you
are gone until 1 year of age.
Destruction
Destruction can include
normal chewing/teething or play behavior. Preventing
destruction by limiting access to vulnerable
items is the easiest way to deal with this problem.
Redirecting chewing to appropriate toys, increasing
exercise, and providing stimulating playthings
(Buster Cubes™, stuffed Kongs™, etc.) can also
help eliminate inappropriate destructive behavior.
Many plants are poisonous and should be kept
out of reach of your new dog. Never directly
punish your dog for destructive behavior. If
you can catch your dog in the middle of destructing,
interrupt him with an indirect stimulus, and
then redirect him to acceptable behavior. Praise
profusely once he engages in good behavior.
Jumping
Jumping is a habit that
is important to break early on. Your dog
should learn as soon as possible that jumping
is not an appropriate way to great people.
When your dog jumps on you, make sure you do
not give him any attention (even yelling) and
turn your back to him. Only turn around
if your dog sits or stands nicely. He will realize
that in order to get attention, he needs to
sit or stand nicely. Try to get as many
people to follow this same rule with your dog.
You may want to put your dog on a leash when
visitors come over so that you can control him
more.
Inappropriate Playing
Mouthing, jumping, mounting,
and rough play need to be discouraged from the
very first day you bring your new dog home.
Remember that what is cute and playful in a
puppy can be annoying and dangerous in an adult
dog. Teach your dog to only play with toys (not
hands, feet and other body parts). Ignore all
inappropriate playing and avoid rough play.
Teach your dog rules for play (drop, stop, etc.)
and constantly reinforce them.
Aggression
Aggression is a very serious
behavior problem and is surprisingly common
in dogs. It is a myth that only "viscous" dogs
bite or that once a dog bites, the only alternative
is to put her to sleep. Virtually all species
of animal have a variety of aggressive behaviors
in their repertoires, to defend themselves from
perceived threats, as well as to compete for
resources such as food, mates and sleeping locations
When a dog is uncomfortable
around strangers, or dislikes certain strangers,
such as men, kids or uniformed people, it is
usually because he has not been fully socialized.
When dogs threaten or bite family members, the
usual suspects are resource guarding and poor
tolerance of body handling. This behavior frequently
pops up in our pet dogs, in the form of possessiveness
of anything from food dish and bones to sofas,
tissues and even garbage! Luckily, there are
exercises owners can do to make their dogs much
more relaxed around resources. It is best
to consult a trainer with help for aggression
issues.
Handle-ability problems are also common in
pet dogs. Many will be naturally reluctant to
have their bodies touched or manipulated, in
certain places or in certain ways. If they are
not taught to accept and enjoy handling, they
may threaten or bite in this context. Gradual
exercises can desensitize dogs to being patted,
hugged, grabbed by their collars and to tolerate
having their feet, mouths, tails and bodies
handled and restrained.
Dogs that have serious difficulties with
other dogs often have similar issues as dogs
that have problems with people: resource guarding
(against dogs), undersocialization (to dogs)
and poor bite inhibition. Dogs will also occasionally
learn that it is fun to bully other dogs. Treatment
efforts may include desensitization and
counter conditioning,
remedial socialization, prompting and selective
reinforcement of more polite on-leash manners
and changing the consequences for dogs that
bully.
Dogs are highly social, to the point of compulsion.
When most dogs spot another dog on the street,
they are highly motivated to approach and investigate.
Being on leash restricts their ability to do
so. The resulting frustration translates into
increased excitement and agitation, which can
be alarming to the owner, who may then deliberately
restrict access, tense up before encounters
or even punish the dog. This starts an association
between the sight of dogs and frustration as
well as owner tension and possibly punishment.
A vicious cycle is then born that often culminates
in thwarting-related or "barrier frustration"
aggression. This, combined with owner-proximity
induced resource guarding, is why so many dogs
are more aggressive on leash than off.
Fights between dogs that
live together are very common. Dogs compete
for resources such as food, bones, toys, owner
attention and sleeping spots and have individual
preferences and moods. Many dogs are also sensitive
about proximity and body-contact. If the fights
are non-injurious (i.e. you are not at the vet's
following each fight having one or both dogs
sutured), there are a number of options, including
non-intervention. Fights are usually context-driven
and, once the triggers are uncovered through
detective work, some combination of obedience
routine to manage the dogs, selective reinforcement
of better behavior, changing emotional associations
("good things happen to you when SHE'S around")
and time-out penalties for fights will bring
relative peace. If the fights are damaging to
either participant, efforts must be much stricter,
with an airtight management regime usually being
necessary.
Prevention of aggression
is much easier than treatment. Socialize your
puppy to as large of a variety of people and
friendly dogs as possible. Make it fun with
lots of treats and playing. Practice anti-guarding
exercises. Teach puppies to bite softly by using
time-out consequences for hard bites before
forbidding all play-biting. Handle your puppy
all over and make it fun with treats and praise.
Find and enroll in a reward-method puppy kindergarten
class that covers these exercises and allows
free puppy play. Maintain socialization and
comfort around resources and handling in adult
dogs with regular practice. Maintain your dog's
soft mouth by insisting she take treats gently
and by carefully monitored and controlled physical
games, such as tug. Allow your dog regular opportunities
to socialize with other dogs.
Separation Anxiety
Dogs are pack animals that
prefer to be with others. When left alone, some
dogs become very distressed, suffering from
an attachment disorder known as separation anxiety.
Dogs who suffer from separation anxiety can’t
learn to cope with being alone, and they express
their anxiety by barking, howling, whining,
chewing, soiling, and/or attempting to escape.
The most effective treatment for a dog with
separation anxiety is to accustom the dog to
very short periods of time alone. While at the
same time, you must pair the experience of being
alone with something wonderful, such as his
favorite treats. Also, make sure you keep
your departures and arrivals low key so the
dog doesn’t associate comings and goings with
arousal and stress. Also, practice short
absences and gradually build up the time you
are gone. Finally, give your dog plenty
of physical exercise before leaving your dog
for lengthy periods of time, especially if you
leave first thing in the morning. What
you should not do is confuse your dog’s anxiety
with revenge, spite, or dominance. Your dog
is genuinely upset and distressed and needs
your help. Punishment will only exacerbate the
dog’s anxiety. Also, do not continue to confine
your dog to a crate or room if the dog is injuring
himself trying to escape. Only use the
crate while you are gone if your dog sees it
as a safe haven. Separation anxiety is
a serious issue where it is best to consult
a professional trainer.
Dog Fighting
Dog fighting is a sadistic
"contest" in which two dogs—specifically bred,
conditioned, and trained to fight—are placed
in a pit (generally a small arena enclosed by
plywood walls) to fight each other, for the
spectators' gambling and entertainment. Fights
average nearly an hour in length and often last
more than two hours. Dogfights end when one
of the dogs is no longer willing or able to
continue. Dogs used in these events often die
of blood loss, shock, dehydration, exhaustion,
or infection hours or even days after the fight.
In addition to these dogfights, there are reports
of an increase in unorganized, more spontaneous
street fights in urban areas. Dog fighting and
animal abuse are criminal activities and require
police intervention. Call 911 if you see
a dog fight or suspect an animal is being used
for dog fighting.
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Preparing your Dog for a Change
in the Family
Baby
Dogs and babies can be
the best of friends. To help your dog prepare
for the newest member of the family you should:
- Set up the nursery
as soon as possible. Let your dog explore
the room during the process.
- Introduce your
dog to the new scents that he will be
living with once the baby is home by
using some of the powders, soaps, lotions
you will use on your baby.
- At least one month
before the baby’s arrival, establish
necessary changes in your dog’s routine.
For example: If you don’t want to allow
your dog in the newborns room while
the baby is sleeping, now is the time
to close the door and to teach your
dog that this room is off limits.
- To get your dog
used to the sights and sounds of babies,
invite friends with babies to visit
or obtain an audiotape of a baby crying.
Baby sounds may be the most frightening
aspect of having a baby around from
your dog’s perspective. Try to desensitize
your dog gradually before the baby comes
home.
- Before bringing
the newborn home, bring home an unwashed
piece of his or her clothing for your
dog to smell so he gets used to the
new smell.
- Once the baby
is home, try to keep your dog’s routine
as close to normal as possible. This
means regular meal times and play sessions.
Praise your dog and give him attention
when the baby is in the room so your
dog will associate the new member of
the family with good times, not competition
for attention.
New Love
Take a look it a from a
dog’s point of view: While once he was the apple
of your eye and recipient of nearly all your
attention, now he has to wait until your new
love is gone before he gets a pat on the head.
The hierarchy in the pack has been challenged.
Not only is this a new smell in the house, and
a new voice, he has taken over some of his favorite
resting spots. It is no wonder that he
exhibits his stress by growling, urinating or
chewing whenever he makes an appearance. Here’s
how your new love can become friends with your
dog:
- Food – Have your
new love feed your dog. Have them remain
in the room while he is eating. In the
beginning, sit across the room and gradually
move closer as your dog gets more comfortable
with him.
- Talking & Walking
– Both of you should take your dog on
a walk. When your dog is relaxed, have
your new love walk him with you. When
he is comfortable with your new love,
have him walk him alone.
- Scent – Put a
couple of your new loves’ shirts by
your dog’s favorite sleeping areas.
You might even consider wearing his
jacket while you are petting or playing
with your dog.
- Approach – Let
your dog approach your new love. Forcing
your dog to confront him will only increase
the level of stress and question his
place in the pack.
- Playtime – Have
your new love play with your dog with
her favorite toys.
Separation from a Family
Member
To ease your dog through
this transition, especially if it is the primary
care taker who will no longer be taking care
of the dog, place an article of clothing with
their scent on it in the dog’s bed. Keep the
dog’s routine as consistent as possible and
make sure you spend extra time with the dog
giving love, attention, and it’s favorite treat.
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Dog Senses
Smell
Smell is the dog's most prominent sense and
the one that is the most different from ours.
It has been estimated that a dog’s sense of
smell is 100,000 times more powerful than a
humans. Scientists think that humans have about
40 million olfactory receptors, versus 2 billion
for your dog.
Hearing
Dogs are able to hear sounds
which we cannot. Dogs can hear at four times
the distance humans can. Their ears are also
better designed to gather more of the available
sound waves – they have 15 different muscles
that move their ears in all directions. Plus
they can move one ear at a time, independently
of the other, to absorb even more information.
Touch
Dogs vary widely in
their reaction to touch. Some dogs
like a good, deep scratch, while others
prefer a soft petting. Dogs
which liked being touched on the chest or
behind the ears are easy to reward for a
good response to a cue. Many dogs do
not like to be touched on their paws.
Sight
Because of the position
of the eyes on the head, dogs have a wider angle
of view than we so. However, the field of vision
from each eye does not overlap as much as ours
so that less of what they see is in focus. This
means that they can see further around them
but can not always identify what they see. Dogs
are very good at noticing movement. This is
one of the reasons why they respond well to
training by hand signals as well as voice commands.
It was once thought that dogs were “color-blind”
– only able to see shades of black and white
with some grey, but scientific studies have
found that’s not true. Dogs are great
at detecting motion – that’s one reason they
can detect a cat up a tree at a much greater
distance than you can! And their night vision
is typically better than ours – dogs have an
additional reflective layer in the eye called
the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back
into the receptor cells of the eye, which not
only increases their night vision, but gives
the appearance of eyes glowing in the dark.
Taste
Just as with humans, taste is closely linked
to the sense of smell. Every dog has different
taste preferences.
Memory
Dogs have very good memories - if they didn't
it would not be possible to train them as easily
as we can. Unfortunately they will also remember
things that we would prefer them to forget.
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Medical
Symptoms to Watch For
– These are signs that your dog is not feeling
well and you need to call your vet:
- Continual Diarrhea
- Continual Vomiting
- Not Eating or
Drinking Water and a Lack of interest
in food
- Lethargic – Reduction
or Change in their level of activity
or play
- Sudden changes
in behavior
- Loss of Color
in their Gums
- Abnormal Discharge
- Difficulty urinating
or defecating
- Lumps
- Marked weight
loss or gain
- Hair loss
- Foul Breath
- Excessive scratching
or licking
- Swollen or painful
abdomen
Ongoing Medical Care
It is advised that you
schedule an annual exam to have your dog’s heart,
weight, skin, teeth and fecal checked. Medical
care will be based on the age, as well as the
physical and mental condition of your dog.
Your vet should prescribe a flea and tick preventative
that should be given once a month all year round,
as well as a heartworm preventative that will
also be given once a month all year round.
Your vet will put your dog on a vaccination
schedule for Bordatella, Distemper, and Rabies
as well.
Spaying and Neutering
Spaying and neutering,
often called sterilization, involves removing
the reproductive organs so that the animal cannot
reproduce. It is the best way to reduce
the pet overpopulation problem – it stops the
animals from having unwanted litters.
Spaying and neutering also reduces your pet's
cancer risk, saves on vet bills because sterilized
pets are healthier, eliminates messy and annoying
heat cycles, greatly reduces urine spraying
and marking, stops pets from roaming, increases
your pet's loyalty, protects children from dog
bites because neutering reduces aggression,
and lengthens your pet's life because sterilized
pets live longer.
Microchip
The microchip is a tiny
chip, only about the size of a grain of rice,
encapsulated within a biocompatible material
that is injected through a hypodermic needle
under the animal's skin. The microchip is inserted
between the shoulder blades near the base of
the neck, where a thin layer of protein anchors
the chip in. It never needs to be replaced,
and will remain active for the entire lifetime
of the pet. The chip has no battery and emits
no signal; it simply has a unique identification
code. A quick wave of a microchip reader sends
a radio signal to the chip and reads the identification
number assigned to your pet. This process is
similar to how a bar code on an item is read
at the check-out counter.Once an animal is microchipped,
it's important to note that guardians need to
send a registration form into the National Registry
that will add their information to the microchip
identification. Without this information form,
the microchip identification will remain assigned
to the original location where the microchip
was implanted. Microchipping insures that your
companion animal will have a permanent, positive
identification that cannot be altered or removed.
Summertime Tips
Always make sure you have
plenty of water and shade for your dog when
he is outside. Unlike humans who sweat
to cool themselves off, dogs cool off by panting.
Prolonged panting can indicate a serious problem,
such as heat stroke. If your pet exhibits signs,
cool him down immediately with cold towels and
ice and transport him to the nearest veterinarian's
office.
If you are running errands
in the summer, do not bring your dog with you.
If you absolutely must take your pet along,
do not leave him unattended in parked vehicles.
Even with the windows cracked, temperatures
can reach over 150 degrees in just a few minutes.
Your pet can overheat and suffer from heat exhaustion
in a matter of minutes.
Weekly grooming of your
pet is also extremely important during the summer
months. Brushing and grooming removes loose
hair and keeps your pet more comfortable.
A heat wave haircut (very short or shaved) is
a good choice.
Wintertime Tips
No matter what the temperature,
wind-chill can threaten a pet's life. A dog
is happiest and healthiest when kept indoors
and taken outdoors for exercise. Don't
leave dogs outdoors when the temperature drops.
When walking in the winter, short-coated dogs
may feel more comfortable wearing a sweater.
Also, the salt and other chemicals used to melt
snow and ice can irritate the pads of your dog’s
paws. There are booties your dog can wear or
you can wipe your dog’s paws with a warm, damp
towel when you return from walks. Be sure
to always wipe down paws after walks before
he licks them and irritates his mouth.
Tail Docking and Ear
Cropping
Tail docking today is the
amputation of a dog's tail at varying lengths
to suit the recommendations of a breed standard.
Docking involves the amputation of the puppy's
tail either with scissors, a knife or with a
rubber band. The cut goes through many highly
sensitive nerves in the tissues including skin,
cartilage, and bone. This procedure is usually
performed without any anesthetic at between
three to five days of age. Tails have
many useful functions and are important for
balance and body language among other things.
Dogs have evolved into their current shape over
many thousands of years. If a tail were not
useful to a dog, natural selection would have
eliminated it long ago.
Ear cropping refers to
the practice of reshaping a dog's ears by surgically
removing the pinna, or "floppy part" of the
ear. Generally, one-half of the ear is removed.
Ears are cropped when a puppy is between nine
and twelve weeks old. Once the pinna is removed,
the veterinarian then tapes the ears in an erect
position to a splint or bracket. Post-operative
pain medication is rarely provided, though the
ears have blood flow and are comprised of cartilage
and nerves. A series of follow-up visits
are conducted during which the ears are handled,
stretched along the edges, and re-taped.
Parvo
Parvo is a virus that attacks
the lining of the digestive system. It causes
dogs and puppies to not be able to absorb nutrients
or liquids. Puppies are especially prone to
it because they have an immature immune system.
Symptoms usually begin with a high fever, lethargy,
depression, and loss of appetite. Secondary
symptoms appear as severe gastrointestinal distress,
such as vomiting and bloody diarrhea. In many
cases, dehydration, shock, and death follow.
Distemper
Canine distemper is a highly
contagious disease caused by a virus (paramyxovirus)
which attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal,
and nervous systems of dogs. It often crops
up in seemingly healthy pets without any warning.
Distemper often mimics benign problems, like
the common cold. Many cases progress to the
point where they are no longer treatable before
the owner even realizes what's happened.
Although dogs are the most commonly affected,
Canine Distemper is also seen in foxes, ferrets,
mink and many other carnivores. These infected
animals are often the cause of the spread of
this disease to domesticated dogs.
Owners can detect distemper by a couple of
signs. First, yellowish-green or green
discharge from the eyes and nose is a classic
indication. It's often accompanied by
sneezing and general lethargy. While dog
diseases can manifest differently from animal
to animal, another hallmark of distemper is
shaking or twitching. This happens because
the disease attacks the canine neurological
system and makes muscles fire continuously.
Unfortunately, by this stage, it's rarely treatable
and the humane step is euthanasia.
Rabies
Rabies is a preventable
viral disease of mammals most often transmitted
through the bite of a rabid animal. Rabies primarily
attacks the nervous system and causes an encephalitis.
The virus is transmitted in saliva from the
bite of an infected animal. The incubation period
prior to clinical signs is extremely variable,
but is usually two-to-eight weeks. The virus
will begin shedding in saliva a short time before
clinical signs develop, usually less than 10
days.
There are three phases
to the course of the disease: prodromal, furious,
and paralytic. Death occurs three to-seven days
from the onset of signs. The prodomal
stage lasts two-to-three days. The signs can
include behavioral changes, fever, slow eye
reflexes, and chewing at the bite site. The
furious stage lasts two-to-four
days. During this stage, signs of erratic behavior
may include irritability, restlessness, barking,
aggression, vicious attacks on inanimate objects,
and unexplained roaming. Disorientation and
seizures may also develop. The paralytic
stage lasts two-to-four days, during which signs
of paralysis develop, usually beginning in the
limb that was bitten. Paralysis of the throat
and face cause a change in the bark, drooling
with typical foaming at the mouth, and a dropped
jaw. These signs are followed by depression,
coma, and death from respiratory paralysis.
Once clinical signs develop, there is no treatment.
All dogs and cats should
be vaccinated against rabies according to local
rules and regulations.
Parasites
Parasitic worms are very
common in dogs and puppies. In most cases, worm
detection is easy and treatment is effective.
However, ignoring possible symptoms and necessary
treatments can lead to serious illnesses and
sometimes even the death of your dog, as well
as the possible transmission of a worm infection
to you.
The most common worms to dogs in the United States are the roundworm, tapeworm,
whipworm, and hookworm - which live primarily
in the dog's intestine and the heartworm, which
lives within the heart and in the blood vessels
leading from the heart to the lungs.
The roundworm is the most common, and puppies are often born with an infection.
In the mother dog, the resting round- worm larvae
are activated by hormones during pregnancy,
and the larvae then cross the placenta to infect
the unborn puppies. Less commonly, the larvae
are carried in the mother's milk into the newborn
puppies.
Heartworm disease is a serious yet preventable
disease spread by mosquitoes. A female mosquito
ingests heartworm larvae from an infected dog
while obtaining a blood meal. The larvae further
develop inside the mosquito, and then the mosquito
injects more mature larvae into another susceptible
dog. This dog becomes infected with heartworm
disease.
The heartworm larvae migrate
in the dog's body from the area of the mosquito
bite and eventually enter the dog's blood. Adult
heartworms develop in the right side of the
heart and major lung blood vessels, causing
damage to these vessels and obstructing normal
blood flow. Over 250 adult worms may develop
in a dog's heart and vessels. Direct infection
from dog to dog does not occur. The heartworm
larvae must develop inside the mosquito to reach
their infective stage.
Intestinal parasites are
also transmitted to your pets by other animals
contaminating the soil. The infected animal
will defecate the worm or the eggs. These eggs
will then develop into a microscopic larvae.
The larvae will then attach itself to your pet's
paws and migrate through the body, eventually
ending up in the intestine of your pet.
Tape worm is transmitted by the ingestion of
fleas or the ingestion of infected rodents.
Treatment for parasites is extremely important
because worms can be transmitted to people.
These include certain species of tapeworms,
roundworms, and hookworms. The same larvae infecting
your pet can migrate into a person and cause
either a skin infection or in some cases an
internal infection to the liver.
In many cases, a dog owner will note the signs of worm infection, or it will
be detected during a regular checkup when your
veterinarian does a microscopic exam of your
dog's stool sample. Heartworm detection requires
a blood test. Your veterinarian can easily make
a specific diagnosis and begin effective worm
treatments that usually cause little discomfort
to your dog.
Hip Dysplasia
Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) is a congenital disease
that mainly affects large breed dogs. The word
"dysplasia" means improper growth. Hip dysplasia
can be described as a faulty or abnormal development
of the hip. In CHD, the hip becomes loose and
wobbly, eventually leading to a form of arthritis
which is commonly referred to Degenerative Joint
Disease (DJD). The degree of lameness that occurs
is usually dependent upon the extent of arthritic
changes in the hip joint. Environmental conditions,
such as exercise and weight, contribute to the
disease and bring out symptoms. Typical
signs of CHD are less activity, problems with
stairs, less jumping, trouble rising, or laying
down, painful reactions to the extension of
the rear legs, and a faint popping sound coming
from the hip. Treatment for CHD can be
as mild as recommending rest, or as severe as
surgery, depending on the severity of the dysplasia,
amount of DJD, the age of the dog, the size
of the dog, and many other factors.
Kennel Cough (aka Canine
Cough)
Kennel Cough is usually
caused by several infectious agents working
together to damage and irritate the lining of
the dog's trachea and upper bronchii.
The damage to the tracheal lining is fairly
superficial, but exposes nerve endings that
become irritated simply by the passage of air
over the damaged tracheal lining. Once
the organisms are eliminated the tracheal lining
will heal rapidly.The most common organisms
associated with Canine Cough are the bacteria
called Bordetella bronchiseptica and two viruses
called Parainfluenza virus and Adenovirus and
even an organism called Mycoplasma.
Kennel Cough in dogs will
stimulate a coarse, dry, hacking cough about
three to seven days after the dog is initially
infected. It sounds as if the dog needs
to "clear it's throat" and the cough will be
triggered by any extra activity or exercise.
Many dogs that acquire Kennel Cough will cough
every few minutes, all day long. Their
general state of health and alertness will be
unaffected, they usually have no rise in temperature,
and do not lose their appetite. The signs
of Canine Cough usually will last from 7 to
21 days and can be very annoying for the dog
and the dog's owners. Life threatening
cases of Kennel Cough are extremely rare and
a vast majority of dogs that acquire the infection
will recover on their own with no medication.
Cough suppressants and occasionally antibiotics
are the usual treatment selections.
The causative organisms
can be present in the expired air of an infected
dog, much the same way that human "colds" are
transmitted. The airborne organisms will
be carried in the air in microscopically tiny
water vapor or dust particles. The airborne
organisms, if inhaled by a susceptible dog,
can attach to the lining of the trachea and
upper airway passages, find a warm, moist surface
on which to reside and replicate, and eventually
damage the cells they infect. The reason
this disease seems so common, and is even named
"Kennel" cough, is that wherever there are numbers
of dogs confined together in an enclosed environment
such as a kennel, animal shelter, or indoor
dog show, the disease is much more likely to
be spread.
Vaccinating with just the
commercial Kennel Cough vaccine alone (contains
only the Bordetella agent) may not be fully
protective because of the other infectious agents
that are involved with producing the disease.
Some of the other agents such as Parainfluenza
and Adenovirus are part of the routine vaccinations
generally given yearly to dogs. It is
important to keep your dog up to date on all
vaccinations to prevent Kennel Cough.
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