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Basic Needs
A Lifetime Commitment
Adopting your cat is a lifelong commitment. Animals
develop a bond with you and your family.
Cats are sensitive to their environment;
major changes such as switching owners and
households can be dramatic and very
stressful. You need to make sure you are
ready to provide food, water, shelter,
medical care and love throughout the life of
your cat – this could be for 15 to 20 years.
You also need to make sure you are committed
to keeping your cat as a trusted and loved
companion as changes occur in your life
(moving, pregnancy, job changes, etc.)
No matter what age or how healthy you are, make sure you
make preparations for your cat if you become
unable to care for her. This information
should be incorporated into your will, or at
minimum, a letter should be kept with your
important papers. Make sure the caretaker
knows they are responsible for your cats and
that they should be contacted if something
should happen. For a donation, PAWS Chicago’s
Guardian Angel program will make sure your
cat is cared for and finds another loving
home if something should happen to you.
An Enriching Environment
You need to make sure there are plenty of positive stimuli
in your cat’s environment. This would
include a variety of toys that are changed
out periodically, and playing with or
petting your cat in different rooms. You
should plan on spending 15 to 30 minutes
twice a day playing with your cat. It could
be less if you have a multiple cat household
in which the cats keep each other company.
Make sure you pet and praise your cat
whenever you have the chance, even if it is
a quick stroke.
Inside vs. Outside
Cats do not need to go outside. The average age of an
outdoor cat is 1 to 3 years. The average
age of an indoor cat is 15 years. A cat
that goes outside has a higher chance of
getting sick, injured or killed by other
animals, cars, etc. Cats in the wild roam
because of their need for food, water,
shelter, and mating. Indoor cats can have a
fulfilling life in your home as long as you
provide plenty of food, water, love, and
stimulus. For example, cat’s likes to bask
in the sunshine so you need to make sure
your cat has access to windows and
sunlight. Cats also like to chase and
capture small objects so you need to make
sure you have toys that represent a chase
and capture situation.
Human Contact
Creating that human bond is important in establishing the
relationship with your cat. Each cat has its
own personality and needs. Your cat will let
you know when they want to be pet. Cats like
to be near you when you are home; they might
sit on the couch with you or in a chair
across the room or in their bed. When you
pass by them, make an effort to pet them and
see how they respond. If a cat wants
attention, they will lay in your line of
sight to get your attention. That is why
your cat will lay on the newspaper or a book
as you are reading it, or on your computer
as you are trying to work. Cats like to be
pet under the chin, behind the ears, on
their back, and on their head. A cat’s
underside is very sensitive. You should only
pet a cat on its stomach if it exposes it to
you willingly. If a cat does not want your
attention, their ears will go back, they
will recede, their tail will start
twitching, their body will stiffen, or they
will start hissing. If they do display this
behavior, do not touch them, let them be. If
a cat gets over stimulated they might nip.
If this happens, leave them alone until they
calm down.
Sufficient Funds for Care
The average cost of care for one cat is $800 -$1,000 per
year. This includes a high quality food,
litter, toys, and routine medical care.
Emergency care or care for an illness can
cost from $250 - $2,000. Care for a serious
illness can cost in the area of $5,000.
Proper Handling
To pick up your cat, place one hand behind the front legs
and another under the hindquarters and lift
gently. You should not pick your cat up by
the front legs or the scruff of the neck.
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Basic Supplies
Dish Ware
We recommend stainless steel, glass, or ceramic food and
water bowls. Avoid plastic containers;
toxins in the plastic and the porous
material encourage bacterial build up.
Food
High quality wet food is great for your cat; it is a great
source of protein (verses grain – cats can
not survive on a vegetarian diet). Feed your
cat wet food two times a day and try to be
as consistent with the feeding time as
possible. Read the labels to determine
serving sizes and to note ingredients. You
want to use premium brand cat foods that
have high meat content. Look for naturally
preserved foods with wholesome contents.
Watch for chemicals and preservatives that
provide no nutritional value. L-Lysine is a
great additive to wet food in order to build
up your cat’s immune system. It helps
prevent upper respiratory infections (URI).
L-Lysine can be purchased at GNC, iherb.com
or a pharmacy. Also, let your cat try a
variety of flavors. You will quickly learn
what their favorite flavors are. Once you
find a food your cat enjoys, do not switch
it. Cats do not need variety in their
food.
Your cat should have access to high quality dry food at
all times. Free feeding portions should be
based on the number and age of your cats. If
you are going to change the brand of dry
food, slowly change it over 1 to 2 weeks.
The weaning process should look something
like this:
First few days: 1 part new food, 3 parts old food
Next few days: half new food, half old food
Final few days: 1 part old food, 3 parts new food
This will allow your cat’s system to adjust to the new
brand. If they should vomit or have
diarrhea, go back to the original brand.
Please read the labels for serving size.
Water
Your cat should always have access to fresh water.
Replenish the bowl with new water at least 2
times a day. Filtered, purified, or bottled
water are recommended. Cats, like humans,
are impacted when impurities and toxins are
found in their drinking water. It is
important to remember that cats do not like
to bend their whiskers while eating or
drinking so make sure that the bowls are
large enough. If your cat is not drinking
from its water bowl, remember cats are much
more sensitive to smell than we are so make
sure you are thoroughly rinsing the bowl
when you are washing it.
Litter Box
The general rule of thumb is 1 box per cat. However, some
cats like to urinate in one litter box and
defecate in the other. If this is the case,
you will need to have an extra litter box.
Your cat should be able to comfortably get
in the box and there should be plenty of
room to perform her elimination ritual of
sniffing, digging, squatting, and turning
around and then covering up the feces. You
may need to experiment to find out which
kind of litter box your cat prefers.
The litter boxes should be private and easily accessible.
Cats are neurotic about their need to feel
safe and secure when they are eliminating.
Place litter boxes in a quiet private place
that are easily accessible to your cat and
where it will not be disturbed by other
family members or pets. A house with several
floors should have a box per floor and the
litter box should not be placed near food or
water. You also want to make sure your cat
knows where the litter boxes are located.
Once you establish the placement of the
litter boxes, don’t move them. If you must
move them do so gradually. Cats are very
location orientated and will continue to
visit an area previously used.
Litter
You should choose a litter that would be desirable from a
cat’s point of view. You should look for an
unscented, absorbent, soft to the touch, and
rake-able substance. Cats do have a
preference for clumping litter over
nonclumping litter. Be sure to select a
brand that clumps into a firm ball, making
scooping easier and cleaner. There should
be no artificial fragrance. Perfumed
chemical scents can repel cats. About 3
inches of litter is satisfactory, with this
amount of litter the urine usually does not
stick to the bottom of the litter box. The
litter you use should contain the least
amount of chemicals as possible; the higher
the natural content the better. Cats get
litter on their paws and then when they
clean their paws, they could be ingesting
the litter.
Scratching Post
A scratching post should be at least 30 inches tall so
your cat can fully stretch its arms up. It
should be made of soft wood or wrapped with
Sisal rope (not carpeting), and mounted on a
stable base that won’t tip. You can
experiment with the location of the
scratching post.
Toys
Toys are a great way to provide your cat with mental and
physical stimulation which make for a
happier and healthier pet. There are a
variety of different toys available today;
your cat will let you know which ones they
enjoy. Again, you will need to experiment
with a variety of toys to discover your
cat’s preference. Toys that are interactive
with humans and cats are a great way to
spend time with your cat.
Toy ideas:
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Light weight items for the “Catch
and Kill” game such as balled up
tissue or wax paper.
-
A couple of Ping Pong Balls –perfect
for cat racquetball.
-
The center of toilet paper or paper
towel rolls, or wine corks – all can
be used for batting practice.
-
Cotton socks varying in size stuffed
with cotton balls, cat nip and tied
at the end.
-
Toys that are on a fishing type pole
or stick.
-
Cat’s love to hide out. After a day
of shopping, let your cat explore
the paper (not plastic) shopping
bags. Please make sure you cut the
handles.
Toys that you should not give your cat include string,
yarn, floss, ribbon, twine, rubber bands,
and bells. Due to the barbs on the cat’s
tongue, it is difficult for them to remove
these items from the tongue and they may end
up swallowing them.
Carriers
Always use a cat carrier when transporting your cat. Put
your cat’s favorite blanket or something
with its scent on it inside the carrier to
comfort her. You should also let your cat
get used to the carrier before you use it to
take her to the vet. Leave the carrier open
on the floor, put her toys or treats in it
so she feels safe and can discover it on her
own. Carriers should be secured. The
seatbelt or shoulder belt should always be
put through the top handle of the carrier.
The carrier should be kept in the back seat
to prevent the impact of airbags, just like
a child.
Places to Sleep
Your cat should have a few places to sleep in your home
that are considered hers. Cat beds, cat
trees, baskets, and pillows are essential.
Cats need a place to sleep where they feel
safe and secure. You will soon discover your
cat’s favorite places to sleep because she
will consistently go back to the same
place. Make sure you check your closets or
rooms before you close the door - cats are
notorious for sneaking into a room or closet
in a quick second. Cats like to sleep and
perch in high places – they like the
security of seeing everything that is
happening below and around them. Cats also
have a hierarchy and the dominant cat will
like to sleep in the highest spot while the
more submissive cat sleeps down below.
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Socialization
Why Socialize?
Cats are highly social animals. You want your cat to be
outgoing and have confidence. Cats that are
talked to, cuddled, and played with are
going to be affectionate companions. Cats
that are ignored and seldom handled are
going to grow to be aloof and independent.
Humans often overlook their sociability
because a cat’s greetings and displays of
affection can be so subtle. A nose touch, a
slow eye blink or a tilt of the tail are all
signs of affection. Cats can become bored
and depressed if they are ignored or do not
receive attention consistently. They
misbehave just to get their owners
attention. When you get home from work spend
the first 10 minutes visiting with your cat.
A couple of 10 to 15-minute play
sessions will improve your cat's attitude
and fitness.
Make sure your cat also gets accustomed to
being pet, groomed and handled by a variety
of people if possible. This will help your
kitty to stay calm during vet appointments
or when meeting new people.
Multiple Cats
Cats are intelligent creatures; they have the intelligence
of a 2 -3 year old child. Cats learn by
observation, imitation, trial, and error.
Most behaviorists believe cats lead
healthier, happier lives if there is another
cat in the house. Even if the cats do not
become the best of friends, just sharing the
house with another living creature helps
break up monotony and loneliness and create
a more socialized cat. Cat boredom is often
the root of a variety of behavior problems
including excessive grooming, depression,
and aggression. The best way to prevent
this from happening is to get your cat a
companion. A companion will act as a
playmate, a partner, and a friend to your
cat. A cat companion will also reduce the
risk of your cat developing destructive
behaviors, becoming depressed or incredibly
needy when you are home. Many destructive
behaviors will be prevented because their
energies will be focused on their playmates.
Young male cats (3 -24 months) have an
especially strong desire for a buddy.
The recommended gender pairing ultimately depends on the
personalities of the cats. Behaviorist
Pamela Johnson-Bennett has found that
male/female and male/male pairs do well
together. Female/female pairs are usually
fine too, but if a person doesn't really
have a preference, we would recommend the
first two pairings before putting two
females together. Whatever the combination,
a slow, systematic introduction will help
ensure that the resident cat and the
newcomer will eventually share the house
amicably.
Cat Trees and Furniture
Cat trees and cat furniture make great homes and hiding
places for your cat. Cats enjoy vertical
space. It has been observed that cats living
in groups are more comfortable if they can
“layer” themselves. It is also important to
create hide outs where your cats can go to
be alone – cat houses or cardboard boxes
that are laid on their side can accomplish
this.
Cat Nip
Cat nip has a remarkable effect on cats. It both
stimulates and relaxes them at the same
time. Cats take off on a 10-minute trip
during which they appear to be in a state of
ecstasy, rubbing and rolling on the plant.
The positive or neutral response to cat nip
happens after a cat reaches 3 months of age.
Cat nip stuffed toys heightens the cats
interest in stationary toys that would
otherwise be considered dead prey, lifeless
and boring.
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Introducing a New Cat into your Household
Familiarity
Cats thrive on the comfort, security, and familiarity of
their environment. When introduced to a new
environment, it is important to gradually
let your cat explore every nook and cranny.
This basic research provides your cat with
valuable information about her surroundings
and enables him to feel secure. Cats are
aware of even the smallest change in your
household. Feeding, litter box, cleaning,
grooming, playtime, and bedtime are all
familiar events which your cat will
anticipate if they occur at the
approximately the same time and place each
day. Cats can change; they just don’t like
it to happen abruptly. To reduce your cat’s
stress during this transitional period, you
will want to do the following:
-
Plan Ahead – Give yourself enough
time to make the change slowly.
-
Start Small – Don’t make a big
change too suddenly or too many
changes at once. Incorporate
familiar things as much as possible.
-
Gradual Change – Take small steps
and give your cat a lot of positive
attention and praise.
-
Watch for signs of stress - This
would include lose of appetite, over
grooming, or a change in litter box
habits.
Households with an Existing Cat
They key to cat to cat introductions is to introduce the
new cat in a systematic and gradual way
utilizing the principles of desensitizing
and positive reinforcement.
-
Keep them separated for a week or
so– when you bring your new cat
home, have a separate space set up
for her with a litter box, toys,
water, bed and a scratching post. A
spare bedroom or bathroom would be
perfect.
-
Introduce the smell first – To a
cat, a sniff is worth a thousand
words. To get your current cat used
to the smell of the new cat, rub a
towel or washcloth gently over the
new cat. Let your current cat smell
the towel; don’t be surprised if he
or she hisses. Hissing and growling
are normal reactions. Do the same
for the new cat. This way the cats
get used to each other’s smell.
-
Encourage interaction through the
door – Place your new cat’s food
near the door of her room so she
stays near the door. Your existing
cat will smell and hear her through
the door. Give your existing cat
treats near the door of the new
cat’s room so that she associates it
with good things.
-
Let her roam alone – Put your
existing cat in the bedroom, and let
the new cat roam around the house.
This lets her explore and get
exercise. Then put the new cat back
in her room and let the existing cat
walk around and smell her without
having to see the new cat. This is a
great way to get them used to each
other’s scent.
-
Open the door a crack - After a few
days, carefully open the door just a
crack so the cats can see each other
but cannot stick their heads out. Be
prepared for some hissing and
growling, but if one tries to smack
the other, close the door. Do this
fairly often.
-
Let them out – Bringing in a new cat
into the house is not unlike
introducing a new baby to an older
brother or sister. Jealousy is a
normal reaction. Don’t forget about
the faithful cat that has been your
companion until now. Don’t yell,
scold or punish her for hissing at
the newcomer. When it is time to let
the new cat out, be sure to monitor
their interactions closely. Reassure
your existing cat verbally and pet
her if you can. When she is nice or
at least non-threatening to the new
cat, praise her and give him treats.
If fighting does break out or one of
the cats is highly stressed,
separate them for a few more days.
Letting them hiss it out is fine,
but if real biting is occurring,
break it up quickly with a spray
from a water bottle. Do not yell at
them, instead, spend time reassuring
them.
-
Do not expect true love – We all
wish our cats would become best
buddies and curl up together. This
does not always happen. They may not
want to “hang out” together, but
they will eventually respect each
other’s space and stop hissing. If
your cats are never best friends,
don’t worry because they will still
keep other company and they will
both love you.
The key to successfully having a multi-cat household is to
eliminate competition. Make sure you have
multiple litter boxes, food, and water set
up in different areas, or at least with
distance between them. This will ensure both
cats have options. Also, make sure you
continue to provide love and attention to
the existing cat. Never scold or use harsh
tones when they are together or they will
associate unpleasantness with being near
each other. Give special attention to the
resident cat as it is her territory that is
being invaded and he is going to need
reassurance. Until they become friends, give
the new cat loving attention only when the
resident cat is not around.
Households with a Dog
Proper dog training is the key to a successful
introduction. Once your cat is confident
that the dog does not pose a threat, then
the opportunity for a wonderful friendship
can begin. Here is a how you should
introduce them:
-
Keep them separated for a week or
so– when you bring your new cat
home, have a separate space set up
for her with a litter box, toys,
water, bed and a scratching post. A
spare bedroom would be perfect.
-
As with cat to cat introductions,
scent is the all-important factor in
cat to dog introductions. Before
letting the pets have visual contact
with each other, let them smell each
other’s bedding.
-
Encourage interaction through the
door – Place your new cat’s food
near the door of her room so she
stays near the door. Your dog will
smell and hear her through the door.
Give your dog treats near the door
of the new cat’s room so that he
associates it with good things.
-
Let her roam alone – Put your dog in
the bedroom, and let the new cat
roam around the house. This lets her
explore and get exercise. Then put
the cat back in her room and let the
dog walk around and smell her
without having to see the new cat.
This is a great way to get them used
to each other’s scent.
-
The dog should know and follow the
basic commands of sit, come, down,
stay and no. Reward obedience with
his favorite treat. His motivation
to obey for the treat will outweigh
the distraction of having a cat in
the room.
-
Now it is time for the introduction.
Make sure your dog is wearing a
collar and leash. Have another
family member bring in your cat and
have them sit down with your cat on
their lap at an opposite end of the
room. Repeat this step several times
until both the cat and the dog are
tolerating each other without signs
of fear or aggression.
- Next move the animals closer with
the dog still on the leash and the
cat gently held in a lap. If the cat
does not like to be held use a crate
or carrier. If the cat becomes
frightened, increase the distance
between the animals and progress
more slowly.
- Initially, the dog should be wearing
a collar and a leash when the cat is
present so that any attempt to bark
at or chase can be stopped
instantly. Praise and treats should
be lavished on the dog when he is
calm and obedient in the cat’s
presence.
Keep the dog and cat separated when you are not home until
you are certain they are safe together. Be
sure the cat does not have to pass through
or by the dog’s area to get to her food,
water, or litter box. If your dog enjoys
raiding the litter box, place a gate across
the entrance of the room where the litter
box is kept to allow the cat to pass through
but not the dog.
Households with Children
From the start, children should be taught how to properly
hold and pet a cat. The child should also be
taught some basic cat body language so that
they will know to leave the cat alone when
her ears are back, her tail is twitching, or
she is growling/hissing. A kitten (over 4
months) or young cat would be great with
children under 7. They can better withstand
the young child’s quick movements and noise.
The key to a harmonious household is to
supervise the interactions between the cat
and the young child. Children can share in
the responsibility of caring for your cat as
long as an adult is ultimately in charge of
making sure that the cat is properly cared
for.
Households with Senior Citizens
Cats make great companions for senior citizens. The most
important thing for senior citizens is not
to get scratched or nipped. Senior citizens
should be taught how to properly hold and
pet a cat if the senior citizen has never
been taught before. Seniors should also be
taught to recognize some basic cat body
language so that they will know to leave the
cat alone when her ears are back, her tail
is twitching, or he is growling/hissing.
Cats and senior citizens are a wonderful
combination and can become the best of
friends.
Allergies
The allergens your pet carries are associated with its
skin, hair follicles, and saliva. Dander, a
naturally occurring combination of skin
cells and saliva, is most often the cause of
pet allergies. Dander is shed from your cat
and embeds itself in carpeting, furniture,
and draperies and stays in the environment
for a long time causing allergic reactions.
It is the protein in this dander that causes
the reactions. Some cats shed more of this
dander then others, making them less
tolerable then other cats. In general, male
cats produce more allergens than females.
The problem of allergies can be solved by making some
minor adjustments to your environment.
People who have allergies are rarely
allergic to just one particular thing.
Allergens are usually cumulative. Since the
allergic person is sensitive to more than
one thing, it is the “Total Allergen Level”
that causes a reaction. Whether or not a
person has symptoms depends on how many
allergens are in the environment. An
individual who is allergic to animals may
exhibit no noticeable symptoms when the
total exposure is below his allergy
threshold level. The goal should be to
minimize exposure to airborne allergens that
exceed your tolerance threshold and trigger
attacks. Air purifiers, vacuums with air
filters, and keeping your environment clean
and free of dust and hair are important in
controlling your allergies. If you have
allergies, you might want to consider not
letting your cat sleep on your pillows or
bed. Wiping your pets down with distilled
water can help too. Feeding a high quality
diet greatly reduces dander production due
to the cat’s skin being healthier.
Talk to your physician about medications that are
available to help with allergies.
Cat Proof Your House
Make sure your house does not have any items that are
harmful to your cats. This can include
poisonous plants, shopping bags, plastic
bags, ribbon, string, twine, yarn and
chemical cleaners. Make sure you check the
labels or all products that your cat could
potentially get into. Avoid any products
that contain Phenols. The ASPCA Poison
Control Hotline (888.426.4435) can provide
pet owners with additional and valuable
information about household chemicals and
plants that can be harmful to your pets.
In Case of Emergency
Make sure you have the following phone numbers in an
easily visible and accessible place:
Preparing your Cat for a Change in the
Family
Baby
Cats and babies can be the best of friends. To help your
cat prepare for the newest member of the
family you should:
-
Set up the nursery as soon as
possible. Let your cat explore the
room during the process. Consider
placing a motion detector in the
crib to discourage him from claiming
this cozy bed as hers.
-
Introduce your cat to the new scents
that he will be living with once the
baby is home by using some of the
powders, soaps, and lotions you will
use on your baby.
-
At least one month before the baby’s
arrival, establish necessary changes
in the cat’s routine. For example:
Since cats like to cuddle, it is not
advisable to allow the cat in the
newborns room while the baby is
sleeping, so now is the time to
close the door and to teach your cat
that this room is off limits.
-
To get your cat used to the sights
and sounds of babies, invite friends
with babies to visit or get an
audiotape of a baby crying. Baby
sounds may be the most frightening
aspect of having a baby around from
a cat’s perspective. Try to
desensitize him gradually prior to
the baby coming home.
-
Before bringing the newborn home,
bring home an unwashed piece of her
clothing for your cat to smell. Cats
identify us primarily through their
sense of smell, not sight.
-
Once the baby is home, try to keep
your cats routine as close to normal
as possible. This means regular
meals times and play sessions.
Praise her and give her attention
when the baby is in the room so she
will associate the new member of the
family with good times, not
competition for attention.
New Love
In many cases, once the apple of your eye comes into the
picture, the cat is no longer the recipient
of nearly all your attention while at home.
She now has to wait until your new love is
gone before she gets a pat on the head. Not
only is this person a new smell and voice in
the house, she has taken over some of your
cat’s favorite resting spots. It is no
wonder that your cat exhibits stress by
urinating, hissing, or growling whenever
your new love makes an appearance. Here’s
how your new love can become friends with
your cat:
-
Food – Have your new love feed your
cat. She should remain in the room
while your cat is eating. In the
beginning, your new love should sit
across the room and gradually move
closer as your cat gets more
comfortable with her.
-
Talking and staring – Your new love
should not stare at your cat until
your cat is comfortable with him.
Your new love should also talk to
your cat in soft, high tones.
-
Scent – Put a couple of your new
loves shirts by your cat’s favorite
sleeping areas. You might even
consider wearing his jacket while
you are petting or playing with your
cat.
-
Approach – Let your cat approach
your new love. Forcing your cat to
confront your new love will only
increase the level of your cat’s
stress and convince your cat that
your new love should be feared.
-
Playtime – Have your new love play
with your cat with her favorite
toys.
Separation from a Family Member
To ease your cat through a separation from a family
member, especially if it’s your cat’s
primary caretaker who is leaving, place an
article of clothing with their scent on it
in the cat’s bed. Keep the cat’s routine as
consistent as possible and make sure you
spend extra time with the cat giving love,
attention, and its favorite treats.
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Behaviors
Avoiding Litter Box Problems
You will need to experiment with a variety of litter and
litter boxes in order to find out your cat’s
preferences. Once you figure out what your
cat likes, stick with it! Do not make
changes to the litter or litter box quickly
(moving the litter box, changing litter or
litter box type, etc.) These types of
changes need to be made gradually. A
confident, secure, content and relaxed cat
does not need to relieve anxiety and stress
by such extreme measures as urine or fecal
marking.
Covered or hooded litter boxes can be offensive to cats
because they tend to trap the odor inside
and they do not satisfy the cats need to
escape potential threats when eliminating.
The hooded box forces a cat to enter a
cramped, cave like structure in which the
smell is contained.
A variety of locations of the litter boxes can prevent
location avoidance problems in which the cat
is afraid or annoyed to pass through an area
to get to her litter box.
The single most common cause for a cat’s refusal to use
the litter box is if it is dirty. Clean the
litter box at least twice a day.
Non-Clumping litter should be scooped daily
and the litter box washed emptied and washed
every other day. Clumping litter should also
be scooped daily and the litter box washed
when it is soiled or when you change out the
litter every 1 to 2 weeks. When you wash the
litter box, use hot water and a mild
dishwashing liquid. Do not use harsh
chemicals that leave a lingering order.
Thoroughly rinse the litter box after
cleansing.
Also, litter box liners and scented litter are irritating
to some cats.
Continual Litter Box Problems
It is important to know that house soiling is never done
to spite the owner. Never punish your cat
for eliminating outside of its litter box.
Try to understand what the cause of the
litter box problem is. Often, continual
house soiling occurs when there is a health
issue, an undesirable litter box, or the
environment is stressful.
Health Concerns – Not using the litter box is often the
first sign of a urinary tract disorder. It
is likely that the discomfort associated
with eliminating may lead to aversion.
Diarrhea, constipation, and colitis are
other problems that can result in discomfort
during the act of elimination and cause
litter box avoidance. See your vet
immediately.
Undesirable Litter box – If your car starts defecating
outside the box, there is probably something
about the box the cat finds undesirable. The
accumulation of waste, odor (organic or
disinfectant), unacceptable litter or an
aversive experience may be the issue.
Environmental Stress/Marking their Territory – When a cat
is urinating on top of a specific object,
such as the owner’s clothing, bed, favorite
chair or shoes, an anxiety-motivated problem
should be considered. If emotional factors
are causing the house soiling, you may see
behavioral changes occurring such as
avoidance, hiding, aggression or general
changing in the pet’s behavior.
Positive Reinforcement
Cats can be trained by using praise and food rewards.
While direct correction is employed in dogs,
if only confuses, frightens, and alienates
cats. Dogs, being pack animals, are used to
being dominated by a higher-ranking member
of the pack, while cats, being solitary
predators, avoid or attack those who show
hostility toward them. It is not useful for
an owner to punish a cat for something it
did even a few minutes earlier because the
cat is incapable of making the connection
between the action and the punishment.
Come When Called
Cats respond most readily to names ending with a long
“eee” sound. Call your cat before you put
down her most delicious meal of the day or
reward him for coming with a special food
treat.
Inappropriate Scratching
To discourage inappropriate scratching, there are several
options. The first option you should try is
getting your cat to scratch appropriately.
Start by putting a scratching post where the
cat is scratching. Using a scratching post
is a basic instinct for a cat. To encourage
the cat to use the scratching post, scratch
on the post and call the cat over. Cats are
great imitators. Praise him profusely
whenever he scratches on it and it will
become a healthy habit. If the cat won’t use
the scratching post, try a different style.
The quality of the post is important. You
can also try sprinkling a little bit of cat
nip on the post to encourage scratching.
Another option for discouraging
inappropriate scratching is to place a light
adhesive strip where your cat is scratching,
or spray it with a deterrent. Finally, if
all else fails, you may want to try putting
caps on your cat’s claws.
Spraying
A change in the scent structure of the home can trigger
spraying. Spraying is accomplished by
squirting a powerful jet of urine backward
onto vertical features of their environment
about 8 inches above the floor. Both females
and males can do this. Cats will revisit and
remark the area to freshen up a fading
scent. When investigating another cat’s
urine mark, the cat will display a curious,
grimacing pose with its mouth partly open.
It is using the vomeronasal (or Jacobson’s
organ) that is located behind the incisor
teeth in the roof of the mouth. This extra
sense allows the cat to smell and taste an
odor at the same time and sends a powerful
signal to the cat’s brain resulting in
sending a territorial response. It is
necessary to reduce the cat’s exposure to
the stimuli that trigger marking and
altering the cat’s response. Conditions that
may cause a cat to spray include:
-
Another cat visiting in the yard
-
New pet or family member
-
Problem with a member of the
household
-
Problem with another pet
-
Moving or remodeling
-
Visitors
Treatment for controlling the marking problems involves
reducing the cat’s exposure to the stimuli
that triggers the marking and then altering
the cat’s response. After spraying has
begun, spaying or neutering is effective in
reducing this behavior. It will reduce
spraying in 90% of males and 95% of the
females, regardless of age and experience.
Scent Marking
Cats are territorial animals. A cat’s territory consists
of a network of paths that are patrolled
regularly on a fairly fixed schedule. Cats
will mark territory, objects, or individuals
by scratching (leaving visual as well as
scent marks), spraying, urine or feces
deposits, and/or rubbing. Cats have greatly
enlarged sebaceous glands around the mouth,
on the chin, in the ear canals, in the
perianal area and at the base of the tail.
When they rub, they leave a chemical scent
behind which is very reassuring to the cat
and non-offensive to humans. This collection
of familiar scents helps cats feel
comfortable and secure in their home
environment.
Grooming
Cats are self-grooming and spend about 1/3 of their waking
hours grooming themselves. Cats always groom
in the same sequence:
-
Lick their lips
-
Lick the side of one paw until it is
wet
-
Rub the wet paw over the head,
including the ear, eye, cheek and
chin
-
Wet the other paw in the same way
-
Rub the other paw over the other
side of the head.
-
Clean (by licking) the front legs
and shoulders
-
Clean flanks
-
Clean genitals
-
Clean hind legs
-
Clean the tail from base to tip
Sleeping
Cats sleep about 16 out of 24 hours a day. A typical day
includes over 16 hours of sleep and 4 to 6
hours of grooming, playing, hunting, eating,
and exploring. There are 3 different levels
of sleep – the brief nap, the longer light
sleep and the deep sleep. A napping cat is
still on alert for any sounds or changes in
her environment. The periods of light sleep
and deep sleep alternate. The light sleep
lasts for about a half an hour, then for 6
-7 minutes she experiences a deep sleep.
During this deep sleep dreaming, twitching
and quivering may occur. After the deep
sleep, a cat returns to a light sleep for
another 30 minutes before finally waking up.
Cats like to sleep where it is warm and
secure.
Playful Attacks
Playful attacks, such as nipping, are not accompanied by
vocalization or hissing and growling. A
natural reaction to being grabbed or bitten,
even playfully, is to swat at the cat. Do
not do this – Physical punishment may cause
your cat either to fear you or engage in
even rougher play. The best deterrent is
your voice – a loud and shrill “Eek!”
followed by a sharp “No!” can be very
effective with some cats. The next step is
to shun the cat for the next 10 minutes.
This means paying absolutely no attention to
the cat. Don’t lecture, scold, or pick the
cat up and move him to a different room. Any
attention at this point can be considered
reinforcing, so totally ignore the cat. This
is how a kitten learns to inhibit her biting
when playing with another kitten. If one
becomes too rough, the victim will squeal
and run away. The aggressor will watch her
playmate run away and wonder what happened.
Eventually he learns that if he wants to
extend her play session, which he wants to
do, then he has to play in a more gentle
way. This training method works if you are
patient and persistent.
Territorial Aggression
Social aggression between cats sharing a house develops
gradually. It starts with hissing and
growling, progresses to swatting and chasing
and finally involves attacking and fighting.
These disputes generally arise when either
cat reaches maturity (8 – 24 months). If
this happens, the victimized cat will
usually retreat to a remote part of the
house where he feels safe, potentially will
not eat or drink when the other cat is
around, and will stop using the litter box
out of fear. The best way to get harmony
back in the house is to systematically
desensitize the aggressor to the victim. It
is the same process you use to introduce a
new cat into the household (explained
earlier in this document). When you
reintroduce them, make sure you separate
them if there are any signs of an aggressive
encounter. Make sure you have a squirt
bottle handy to douse the aggressor if he
makes a threatening advance. Do not shout or
scold for it will frighten the victim as
well.
Fearful or Defensive Aggression
Fearful or defensive aggression occurs when the cat
perceives itself to be under threat from
which it cannot escape. The cat may exhibit
the following body postures: crouching with
its ears flattened against its head, hissing
and spitting, hair is standing up. These are
all signals to other animals or persons that
further approach is likely to lead to a
defensive attack. A person or animal that
ignores these warming signals is likely to
get hurt. It is very important to educate
children and strangers on the warning
signals cats may give. The best way to
handle a defensively aggressive cat is to
avoid the cat until it calms down. You
should not try to comfort the cat by
approaching it or picking it up. The cat
should be left alone until it relaxes enough
to play, or eat, or shows signs of
affection. The defensively aggressive cat
only attacks when approached; it does not
seek out the source of the threat or pursue
it if it withdraws.
Redirected Aggression
When two cats who have gotten along well together suddenly
become aggressive toward each other, the
problem is generally fear induced
aggression. The fear is a result of
something frightening in the environment (a
new cat in the window, a vase breaking, a
door slamming) that causes both the cats to
go into a defensive posture as if they were
about to attack. In order to treat this type
of aggression, the cats must be separated
and reintroduced to each other. Do not try
to handle the cats if they are aroused or
agitated or you will be the victim of
redirected aggression. If necessary, use a
thick towel to remove one of the cats.
Redirected aggression towards humans generally occurs when
a cat is in a highly aroused, aggressive
state and attacks a person within reach.
This state can be caused by a loud
disturbing noise, the sight of an unknown
cat, or by having been in a fight. Cats
generally do not redirect aggression unless
they are touched or closely approached by a
person. The owner should wait until the cat
has changed its mood before interacting with
it. This state can last two hours or more
but in most cases, it is over in 30 minutes.
After the cat has engaged in another
behavior, such as grooming, playing or
eating it is usually safe to approach it. To
treat this type of aggression, the arousing
stimulus must be identified so that it can
be eliminated.
Purring
Cats begin purring at about 1 week of age. It lets a
nursing mom know that all is well with her
baby and the milk supply is reaching its
destination. She in turn purrs, letting her
baby know she is content, relaxed and in a
cooperative mood. It is believed that
purring among adult cats and between cats
and humans is derived from its parent
offspring relationship. Contentment is not
the sole condition for purring. A cat will
purr to signal a friendly social mood and
can be found on an injured cat to indicate
the need for attention. Cats purr with both
inward and outward breaths with their mouths
firmly shut.
Purring that Results in a Bite
Purring that results in a bite can be caused by the
following:
-
Your cat is sleeping in your lap,
wakes suddenly and is momentarily
disorientated by its surrounding and
being confined. After he jumps down,
he may look confused and begin to
groom himself to calm down.
-
Sensitive or nervous cats can be
over stimulated by prolonged
petting. There are usually warning
signs – restlessness, tail
twitching, flattened ears, or a head
turned toward the hand. You should
stop petting the cat before this
point is reached. At this time, a
small food treat could be given,
along with a few strokes, to
gradually increase the threshold.
Never physically punish the cat for
biting as it may cause him to become
defensive and to seriously
retaliate.
-
Petting the sensitive stomach area
causes a natural defense reaction
which includes wrapping its paws
around the person’s wrist, holding
on, and biting.
Petting and Holding
Cats vary in how much they like to be pet or held and will
let you know when they have had enough.
Cats that do not enjoy prolonged petting or
being held will still play with their
owners, follow them around the house, sleep
on the bed with them, and even sit on laps.
Nocturnal Cats
Cats in the wild are mostly nocturnal. Domestication has
shifted the cat’s activity to be more awake
during the day, but they still tend to wake
at least twice during the night. In order to
make sure your cat lets you sleep in peace
there are a few things you can do. First,
schedule a few play sessions before you go
to bed and try to play until the cat is
tired. Also, feed your cat their main meals
before your bedtime. Cats tend to sleep
after a big meal. You can also incorporate
a variety of enrichment activities to keep
your cat active during the day so that he is
tired at night. And finally, you can get a
playmate for your cat.
Be sure you do not get up and attend to the cat if he is
making noise playing in the night unless you
feel something is wrong. If you rise and
feed or play with the cat you are
reinforcing the cat’s behavior for waking
you up.
Falling
Few mammals outshine the cat in balance, leaping ability,
and depth perception. The single tracking
foot placement on the cat allows movement
across narrow spaces, powerful rear leg
muscles and relatively large hind feet
enable explosive forward or upward thrusts,
while keen depth perception ensures accuracy
with prey.
A fast working nervous system and flexible spine enable a
cat to right itself to a feet first position
before falling 24 inches and spongy paw pads
cushion the landing. In falls from fairly
high spaces, the cat will extend her spine
and stretch out her limbs in a sort of
“flying squirrel” position that slows the
cat’s velocity. Owners tend to believe their
cats are creatures of good sense and uncanny
balance. This is not always the case and
cats become victims of what is called High
Rise Syndrome or severe injuries due to
falls. This can be caused by the following:
-
The muscle twitches and dreaming
associated with REM sleep can result
in enough movement and
disorientation to knock a cat off a
ledge.
-
An intense prey drive might drive a
cat right out of a window without
considering the consequences of
their action.
-
In a few cases, a cat will flee in
fear.
The best way to protect your cat is to make sure your
screens are securely fastened to your
windows and can withstand your cat’s weight,
make sure you have screen doors on the doors
to your balconies or back yards, and make
sure your cat can not fit through your
balcony or jump on the ledge.
Boredom
Cats are a highly intelligent domestic animal and they do
need stimulus in their environment. This
includes but is not limited to toys, treats,
playtime, human touch, and other animal
companions. Cats form emotional attachments
to their owners and can suffer from
separation anxiety when the owner is away.
These cats will show their stress and
unhappiness by over grooming (licking their
fur off), overeating, destructive
scratching, house soiling and depression.
Preying
The cats that most commonly bring home prey as gifts for
their owners are spayed females. It is
believed they are redirecting their
instincts to bring food home for their
kittens to their human companions. Under
natural conditions, a mother introduces her
kittens to prey very gradually. At first she
brings home dead prey and eats in front of
them. Next she brings home live prey and
eats it in front on them. Next she brings
home live prey and shows them how to subdue
and kill it. After many lessons, the kittens
will have acquired the skills to survive on
their own. Cats confined indoors often
substitute toys for prey. When your cat does
this, make sure you praise and compliment
them. This is a special gift from your cat
friend.
Plant Eating and Digging
From a cat point of view, a potted plant is a snack, an
entertainment center, and a bathroom all in
one. Rubbing moistened black pepper onto the
leaves and placing stones on top of the dirt
will dissuade the cat from tasting or
digging in the plant. You will need to make
sure that the plants in your home are not
poisonous to your cat. A list of poisonous
plants can be found on the PAWS Chicago
website.
Stress
Stress occurs when the cat senses a potentially
threatening situation. The threat triggers a
series of activities in the animal’s
autonomic nervous system – heart rate, blood
distribution, and respiration. These
changes prepare the animal to either combat
or escape the challenger. For example: the
pupils will dilate to admit as much visual
information as possible and the tiny hair
follicles contract causing the cat’s fur to
stand erect and make the animal look bigger
and more intimidating. They become extremely
alert and behave aggressively toward
anything that approaches too near. When the
source of the stress is a known foe and the
challenge has been met by either fight or
flight, its fear subsides and it returns to
a normal state. When the cat can’t recognize
the source of its fear, or can’t avoid a
reoccurring source of its fear, its fear can
lead to anxiety that could become chronic.
The cat must either live with the stress or
act out behaviors in negative and harmful
ways.
Cats have 4 major defense mechanisms: 1. Flight – withdraw
from the threat, 2. Fight – defensive
aggression, 3. Freeze – crouching and lying
still to avoid attention, 4. Appeasement –
actively submitting to the aggressor.
Unlike dogs, cats rarely choose
appeasement.
Decreasing Stress
Cats find consistent routines and predictable environments
very comforting. It is the best way to
avoid stress. Play, meal, and bedtime should
occur at approximately the same time every
day. If your household is going to be
unusually chaotic, your cat should be put in
a room where it feels safe and secure and
has all the necessities like food, water,
litter box, and her favorite bed. Remember
that cats find familiar scents – their own
and their favorite persons – very
reassuring. When you are talking to a
stressed out cat, use a slightly higher than
normal pitch to your voice and speak softly.
Deep voices create fear and loud voices can
be grating on a cat’s sensitive ears. You
can stroke your cat with your voice and this
can have a wonderfully soothing and healing
effect on your pet.
If the stressor cannot be removed from the environment,
stress can be reduced or eliminated by
systematic desensitization and counter
conditioning. By rewarding your cat with
food and attention when you expose her to a
feared stimulus, you counter condition her
response. Through this process, she learns
to associate a pleasurable experience with
the object she fears. This gradual, slow and
systematic process will reduce and
eventually eliminate her anxiety so she can
be a confident, relaxed, and friendly member
of the family.
Manifestations of Stress
Signs of stress are recognized by changes in your cat’s
behavior. For example, cats that are
extroverted and suddenly become nervous and
reactive. Or an introverted cat, they may
become immobile and sit in a fixed posture
for a long period of time. Stress can be
exhibited in the following ways:
-
Inappropriate elimination – this is
one of the most common responses to
stress.
-
Territorial marking behaviors
-
Excessive grooming or self mutation
-
Immobility (depression) and hiding
-
Redirected aggression towards people
or other animals
-
Excessive Vocalization
-
Loss of Appetite
-
Restlessness
All of these are also signs of illness
so you need to make sure you take your cat
to the vet to rule out illness.
>> return to
the table of contents
Cat Senses
Smell
A cat’s sense of smell, not vision, is the primary
resource for identifying individuals and
objects in its environment. They have over
200 million odor sensors in their noses
compared to 5 million for humans. Their
sense of smell is 14 times more sensitive
than humans. Because of this, you should be
sensitive to scented litter, other animal’s
smells on you, or an unfamiliar scent in
their environment (a new piece of furniture
or a house guest)
Tails
A cat’s tail tells a lot about her mood. When the tail is
erect to its full length, it is a greeting,
an invitation for rubbing, or a request for
food. The tail flick of a seated cat often
indicates irritation. Tail wagging can range
from small flicks, which might express
indecision, or in its most pronounced form,
it can be the prelude to a fight between
male cats. A tail that is held down with
an elevated rump belongs to an aggressive
cat that is standing sideways near another
cat. A fluffed up, arched tail is seen when
the cat stands with its back arched and is
torn between aggressive or defensive. A
fluffed tail that is positioned straight out
or down is seen when the decision moves
towards aggression. A tail wrapped against
the cat’s body may mean that the cat is
contented or for a nervous cat, it is a
defensive posture. All of these behaviors
can be seen in kittens as they engage in
play.
Ears
Cats involved in a standoff will make threatening sounds,
but the position of the ears will let you
know who is the defender and who is the
aggressor. The defender’s ears will lie down
flat against the head for protection. The
aggressor’s ears will lie flat, but with a
twist, so that the tips of the ear can be
seen from the front. Confident, curious,
cats listen for sounds in front of them
using forward pointing ears. A cat that is
hunting or playing will also keep its ears
forward to collect as much auditory
information as possible in order to execute
a successful pounce.
Eyes
In dim light conditions, a cat’s pupils expand to allow as
much light as possible to enter the eye. In
a standoff situation, the defending cats’
pupils will be dilated to provide the cat
with wider peripheral vision, an advantage
in anticipating an attack. The aggressors’
pupils narrow to give him better depth
perception, an advantage in judging where to
attack. One of the most wonderful cat eye
signals is the slow blink. Blinking is a
very powerful communication tool used to
signify reassurance. A continuous stare has
the opposite effect; it is threatening and
unsettling and is used effectively by cats
in managing territorial distances.
Taste
A cat’s sense of taste is weak. Humans have 9,000 taste
buds while cat’s have 473. They make up for
this deficiency with a superior sense of
smell. Like humans, cats are responsive to
4 basic tastes; sour, bitter, salt, and
sweet. Being strict carnivores, their
response to sweet is much weaker than ours.
The cat’s most powerful response to food is
through smell, not taste.
Tongue
Cats drink by converting their tongues into a spoon. The
tip of the tongue is curled backward to
create a hollow shape that acts like the
bowl of a spoon. Small quantities of liquid
are flicked toward the rear of the mouth.
The cat swallows after every 4th
or 5th lap. The barbs on the
tongue soak up the liquid like a sponge. The
backward pointing barbs serve to move food
and water into the cat’s mouth. They also
make it difficult for a cat to remove a
piece of string or yarn from its mouth.
These barbs are also used for cleaning the
cat’s fur, smoothing the fur when it is
ruffled, drying the fur when it is wet,
panting when the cat is hot, and cooling the
cat when it is hot by covering its fur with
saliva that then evaporates.
Paws
Cats are right pawed (20%), left pawed (40%) or
ambidextrous (40%).
Touch
Cats enjoy contact. They enjoy being touched from infancy
on, unless they were not exposed to human
contact early on. From birth, touch is the
prime source of affection through grooming.
Cats will often regress and behave like
kittens and start drooling or treading when
they are stroked. Each hair has many nerve
endings and it evokes a very clear response
from the nervous system: heart rate slows,
muscle tone drops, and the body relaxes. The
more contact you have with a cat when it is
young, the more likely it is it will enjoy
human contact when it is older.
Whiskers
Whiskers are extensions of the cat’s skin. The whisker is
designed to detect even the minutest changes
in the environment; tiny movements, air
currents, changes in air pressure,
temperature, and wind direction. They are
imbedded three times as deep as fur, in
order to translate the slightest contact to
sensory cells at their roots. They assist
the cat in navigating at night by acting
like radar. They also stimulate an eye blink
when touched to protect the eye.
Vision
The location of eyes on the front of the face enables the
cat to calculate the exact distance it has
to leap to catch its prey. Its pupils dilate
at night to let in as much light as possible
and form a slit by day. The cat’s visual
activity is 10 times less than a human but
is compensated for with a retina whose
structure provides it with movement
detectors to help locate its prey. The
tapetum, a reflective layer at the back of
the eye, increases the amount of light that
passes through the retina and enables the
cat to see well in low intensity light. Cats
can’t see any better than humans in total
darkness.
Hearing
The cat’s outer ear is connected by 27 muscles and can
rotate 180 degrees to scan the environment
or to direct its attention to a particular
sound. Cats can detect higher frequencies
than dogs. The direction of the source of
the sound can also be calculated by the cat
sensing differences in the time of the
arrival and the intensity of the sound
received by the 2 ears.
>> return to
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Medical
3-in-1 Vaccine
Vaccines protect your cat from specific viral and
bacterial infections. The 3-in-1 vaccine
protects cats from Pan Leukopenia (cat
distemper), Calicivirus, and Rhinotracheitis
(a flu like virus). Kittens should be
vaccinated at 8 weeks, 12 weeks, and 16
weeks. Unvaccinated cats older than 4
months need to be vaccinated 2 times within
a 3 – 4 week period to build up their
immunity. After that it is recommended once
a year.
Rabies Vaccine
The rabies vaccine protects your cat from contracting
rabies and can be given at 12 – 16 weeks of
age. The first follow up rabies vaccine is
given 1 year later. This vaccine can be
given as a 1 year or 3 year vaccine with
their first rabies vaccine being a 1-year.
Ear Mites
These tiny parasites are a common problem and can be
transmitted from cat to cat. If your cat is
scratching her ears or shaking her head, he
may have ear mites. They look like brown
spots (they look a lot like coffee grounds!)
or clumps of dirt in their ears. Call your
veterinarian for treatment.
Upper Respiratory Infection (URI)
Cat Calicivirus and Cat Herpesvirus are responsible for 80
– 90% of upper respiratory infections.
Sneezing, watery eyes, a runny nose, a
fever, and discharge from the nose or eyes
are all symptoms of a URI. If left
untreated, URI can be deadly, especially to
kittens and senior cats. Most cats are
exposed to these diseases through out their
life. Cats become infected by direct
exposure to infected individuals, either
from sneezed droplets, or from contaminated
objects such as food and water dishes. Also,
cats that are under stress have a
compromised immune system and are more
susceptible to a URI.
Pan Leukopenia (Cat Distemper)
Pan Leukopenia, also known as Cat Distemper, is a highly
contagious and deadly viral disease. Signs
that your cat may exhibit if she has Pan
Leukopenia include extreme listlessness and
a loss of appetite. Fever, vomiting, and
diarrhea are frequently seen, but some cats
die suddenly with few clinical signs. A high
percentage of cats, especially kittens, die
from this infection. This virus is shed in
the feces or vomit of an infected cat and
can survive extreme temperature and
humidity. It is spread by exposure to the
infected feces or vomit (by sniffing or
licking – a common cat behavior). Immunity
induced by the vaccine is excellent as
vaccinated cats are usually protected from
infection and disease.
Feline Urinary Tract Disease
This is a disease of the lower urinary tract, affecting
the bladder or the urethra. Signs your cat
may exhibit if she has Urinary Tract Disease
include frequent trips to the litter box,
crying, blood in the urine, and straining to
urinate. Call your vet if you see signs of
these behaviors. About 5% of cats are
infected with Feline Urinary Tract Disease
and special diets can help prevent this
condition. If your male cat looks
constipated, he may have a urethral
obstruction and can’t urinate (this is
rarely found in female cats). This can be
fatal is not treated quickly.
Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV)
FeLV is shed in very high quantities in saliva and nasal
secretion, but also in urine, feces, and
milk from infected cats. Cat-to-cat transfer
of the virus may occur from a bite wound or
during mutual grooming. Transmission can
also take place from an infected mother to
her kittens, either before they are born or
while they are nursing. FeLV does not
survive long (a few hours) outside the cat’s
body under normal household conditions. As
kittens mature they increase their
resistance to FeLV infection. For example,
the degree of virus exposure sufficient to
infect 100% of young kittens will infect
only 30% or fewer of adults. Nonetheless,
even healthy adult cats can become infected
if sufficiently exposed. FeLV adversely
affects the cat’s body in many ways. It is
the most common cause of cancer in cats, it
may cause various blood disorders, and it
may lead to a state of immune deficiency
that hinders the cat’s ability to fight
infection. There are 2 stages of FeLV:
-
Primary Viremia – the early stage of
virus infection. During this stage, some
cats are able to mount an effective
immune response, eliminate the virus
from their bloodstream, and stop the
progression to the secondary stage.
-
Secondary Viremia – this stage is
characterized by a persistent infection
of the bone marrow and other tissue. At
this stage, they are infected for the
remainder of their life. The life
expectancy for FELV cats is 2 to 3 years
after becoming infected.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV)
The primary mode of transmission for FIV is through bite
wounds. Casual, non-aggressive contact is
not an efficient route of spreading FIV. As
a result, cats in households with stable
structures where housemates do not fight are
at little or no risk for acquiring FIV
infections. On a rare occasion, an infected
mother cat transmits the infection to her
kittens, usually during the passage through
the birth canal or when the newborns ingest
infected milk. Infected cats can appear
normal for years, however, the infection
eventually leads to a state of immune
deficiency. Early in the course of the
infection, the virus is carried to nearby
lymph nodes, where it reproduces in the
white blood cells. The virus then spreads to
other lymph nodes throughout the body. An
infected cat’s health may deteriorate
progressively or be characterized by
recurrent illness interspersed with periods
of relative health. An FIV cat can live many
months to many years with the disease.
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP)
FIP is a disease caused by a corona virus infection. Many
different strains of corona virus are
capable of infecting cats, but most do not
produce serious disease. FIP producing
strains are distinguished by their ability
to invade and grow in certain white blood
cells. The infected cells transport the
virus throughout the cat’s body. Infected
cat’s shed corona virus in their saliva and
feces. Most cats become infected by inhaling
or ingesting the virus, either by direct
contact with an infected cat, or by contact
with a virus contaminated surface like
clothing, bedding, toys, or bowls. The virus
can survive for a number of weeks in the
environment. Initial exposure to the FIP
virus usually results in no obvious clinical
disease, although cats may exhibit a mild
upper respiratory disease or mild intestinal
disease. Most cats that undergo the primary
infection completely recover, although some
of them may become carriers. Only a small
percentage of exposed cats develop the
lethal disease – weeks, months, or perhaps
years after the primary infection. The major
forms of FIP are:
-
Effusive (wet) FIP – This is
characterized by the accumulation of
fluid within the abdomen (extended
stomach) and/or chest. When fluid
becomes excessive, the cat has
difficulty breathing.
-
Non-effusive (dry) FIP – Fluid
accumulation is minimal, although
weight loss, depression, anemia, and
fever are always present. Signs of
kidney failure, liver failure,
pancreatic disease, neurological
disease or eye disease may be seen
in various combinations. It is
difficult to diagnose because each
cat can display different signs.
Cats that are most susceptible to FIP are young cats (less
than 2 years), older cats (over 10 years),
and cats in poor physical condition (cats
that have an existing infection or cats that
are highly stressed.) Blood tests performed
can detect the presence of corona virus
antibodies in a cat. A positive test result
only means that the cat has prior exposure
to a corona virus and has developed
antibodies against it. A healthy cat with a
high titer (count) is not necessarily more
likely to develop FIP or be a carrier than a
cat with a lower titer. In all cases, a
tissue biopsy is the only way to absolutely
confirm a diagnosis of FIP. Once the
clinical signs appear, cats with the
effusive (wet) form of FIP will live a few
days to a few weeks. Cats with the dry form
of FIP can die within a few weeks, but
survival for up to a year is possible. Many
different strains can infect cats, but most
do not produce serious disease, usually less
than 1 to 5% of corona virus-infected cats
develop FIP.
Zoonotic Disease
These are diseases that are transmitted between humans and
cats. Transmission of the disease is by the
following means:
-
Saliva (secretion) from an infected
cat
-
Feces (excretion) from an infected
cat
-
Fleas or Ticks from another animal
-
Food or Water that has been
contaminated by the infected cat.
Most zoonotic diseases pose a minimal threat, however,
individuals who have immature or weakened
immune systems such as infants, individuals
with AIDS, the elderly, and people
undergoing cancer therapy, are more
susceptible to zoonotic infections than
others.
Zoonotic Disease: Feline Scratch Disease
Feline Scratch Disease is the most common zoonotic disease
associated with cats. It occurs when a
person is bitten or scratched by an infected
cat. People with Feline Scratch Disease will
usually have swollen lymph nodes and also
may experience fever, headache, sore muscles
and joints, fatigue, and poor appetite.
Healthy people generally recover with no
lasting effects.
Zoonotic Disease: Salmonella
People usually get Salmonella by eating contaminated food
such as under cooked chicken or eggs.
However, cats and other animals can carry
and pass Salmonella bacteria in their stool.
This is more commonly found in cats that
feed on raw meet or wild birds and animals.
Salmonella can cause diarrhea, fever, and
stomach pain beginning 1 to 3 days after
infection. It is usually resolved on its
own. Keeping cats indoors and feeding them
cooked or commercially processed food can
prevent cat Salmonella infection. Wearing
gloves and washing hands thoroughly after
cleaning litter boxes can prevent human
infection.
Zoonotic Disease: Fleas
Fleas are the most common external parasite infection for
cats. While fleas cannot thrive on humans,
their bites can cause itching and
inflammation. Cats may become infected with
tapeworms when fleas are ingested while
grooming. Checking their feces for worms and
proper flea treatment (especially if there
is a dog in the house) is essential.
Zoonotic Disease: Roundworms
Cats become infected with Roundworms when they consume
infected worm eggs from soil in the
environment (generally through normal
grooming),
nurse from an infected mother, or consume a
prey animal (usually rodent) that is
carrying developing worms.
Anti-parasitic medications for kittens and
annual fecal exams for adult cats can reduce
environmental contamination and the risk of
human infection.
Zoonotic Disease: Ringworm
Cat Ringworm is contracted by coming in contact with
contaminated soil. It is a fungal infection
that appears as a dry, gray, scaly patch on
human or cat skin. In most cases, a cat
contracts Ringworm from soil that is brought
into the home by a human’s shoe. Ringworm is
transmitted to humans by contact with the
infected animal’s skin or fur. Infected
cats continually drop fungal spores from
their skin and fur. These spores care
capable of causing infection for many months
and are difficult to eradicate from the
household. To reduce the spread of ringworm,
keep the animal confined to one room until
they are free from the infection and then
thoroughly clean and disinfect the
household. On average, the cat is not clear
of the fungus until 3 weeks after the
appearance of the last spot. Most cats will
be partially shaved and bathed in medicated
shampoo to prevent the spread of the
disease. You should always wear gloves and
change your clothing after you have contact
with an animal infected with ringworm.
Zoonotic Disease: Cryptosporidiosis and
Giardiasis
These infections may be associated with gastrointestinal
tract disease and can cause diarrhea in both
cats and people. Cats and people are
usually infected by a common source, not by
each other. For example, contaminated water
in the home that both the cat and human are
using.
Zoonotic Disease: Toxoplasmosis
People with weakened immune systems or infants whose
mothers are infected during pregnancy can
develop Toxoplasmosis. People commonly
become infected by eating raw or undercooked
meat or by inadvertently consuming
contaminated soil on unwashed or undercooked
vegetables. Cats commonly become infected by
eating infected rodents, birds, or anything
contaminated with feces from another
infected cat. An infected cat can shed the
parasite in its feces for up to 2 weeks. The
parasite must then mature from 1 to 5 days
before it becomes capable of causing
infection. However, it can persist in the
environment for many months and continue to
contaminate soil, water, gardens, sandboxes
or any place where infected cats have
defecated.
Unfortunately, pregnant women or immunosuppressed
individuals are often mistakenly advised to
remove cats from their household to reduce
the risk of Toxoplasmosis. However, people
are highly unlikely to become infected by
direct contact with their cats. Basically,
proper hygiene can prevent Toxoplasmosis.
Humans should wear gloves when handling
potentially contaminated material (gardening
or raw meat) and make sure to wash their
hands before and afterwards. Sandboxes
should also be covered when not in use to
prevent wandering cats from playing in them.
Pregnant women or immunosuppressed
individuals are safest when the other
household members clean the litter box.
Zoonotic Disease: Rabies
Rabies is a viral disease that results from the bite of an
infected animal. Rabies attacks the central
nervous system and is almost always fatal.
In humans, a rabies infection is a result of
being bitten by an infected animal such as a
bat, raccoon, or a stray animal. Rabies is a
public health concern and your animals
should be vaccinated. You need to check your
city’s or states law to know what their
policy is on Rabies vaccinations.
Symptoms of an Illness
These are some of the signs that your cat is not feeling
well so you should call your vet:
-
Continual diarrhea
-
Continual vomiting
-
Not eating or drinking
-
Lethargy – reduction in their level
of activity or play
-
Lack of interest in grooming
-
Loss of color in gums
-
Loss of elasticity in fur
-
Straining in their litter box
Ongoing Medical Care
It is advised that you take your cat into the vet for an
exam and a fecal once a year. Medical care
will be based on the age, as well as the
physical and mental condition of your cat.
Vaccines and Cancer
Sarcomas are not a new form of cancer. In 1991, vets began
noticing a higher than expected number of
sarcomas occurring on cats bodies where
vaccines are commonly injected. The benefits
of vaccines out way the low risk of
developing a sarcoma. If you detect a lump
and it meets the following criteria, you
need to see your vet immediately:
1. It
persists for more than 3 months after the
vaccination.
2. It is larger than 2
centimeters in diameter (about the size of
an olive).
3. It is increasing in size 1
month after the vaccine. If this is the
case, consult with your vet on what options
are right for your cat. Some things to
consider:
-
Make sure your vet is rotating the location
of the vaccines
-
See if a blood test can be run to check the
titers or level of immunity prior to vaccinating
-
Talk to your vet about the benefits of 1
year or 3 year vaccines.
-
Talk to your vet about what vaccines your
cat should get based on your cat’s lifestyle
and environment.
Declawing
Declawing is consistent with amputation. When you declaw a
cat, you physically remove the nail and a
part of their toes. Declawing alters the
alignment of their spine. It involves a very
painful surgery and recovery period. Some
cat’s personalities and behaviors change as
a result of this painful surgery. Scratching
is an innate behavior and should be
addressed by providing your cat with the
proper equipment and place to scratch.
General Grooming
You should brush your cat’s coat at least once a week to
keep its coat shiny, sleek, and clean. Also,
trimming the nails regularly reduces the
likelihood of damage caused by sharp claws
and lessens the possibility of the nail
growing into the pad and causing infection.
Trim their nails as needed (every 1 -4
weeks). You should check the elasticity of
their fur and the color of their gums at
least once a week and more often if their
behavior changes.
Age
A 1 year old cat is physiologically similar to a
16-year-old human, and a 2-year-old cat is
like a person who is 21. After that, each
cat year is worth 4 human years.
-
10 year old cat = 53 year old human
-
12 year old cat = 63 year old human
-
15 year old cat = 73 year old human
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Feral
Feral or Stray?
A feral cat is a cat that was lost or abandoned and has
reverted to a wild state, or a cat that was
born to a stray or feral mother and has had
little or no human contact. They are not
suitable to cohabitate with people. They
live in families or groups called colonies
that form near a source of food and shelter.
A feral cat is silent, will not approach
humans, and will generally be seen from dusk
to dawn. A feral cat adapts to most
conditions and is generally well groomed. If
you put food down, she will wait until you
move away from the way before approaching
the food. Sometimes feral kittens up to 8
to 10 weeks of age can be socialized and
adopted into homes.
Stray cats were companion animals at one time and can be
re-socialized and adopted. A stray cat is
likely to approach you, although not close
enough for you to touch him. If you put food
down, a stray cat will likely start to eat
right away. A stray cat is often vocal,
sometimes talking insistently and may look
disheveled as if he is unaccustomed to
dealing with the conditions of the street. A
stray can be seen at all times of the day.
Trap/Neuter/Return (TNR)
TNR is a non-lethal sterilization method to reduce the
number of feral cats in the environment both
immediately and in the long term by breaking
the reproduction cycle– this is critical to
reducing the pet overpopulation problem. TNR
is a program in which feral cats are humanly
trapped, then evaluated, vaccinated, and
sterilized by a veterinarian. Kittens and
tame strays are adopted into good homes.
Healthy adult feral cats are returned to
their familiar habitat under the lifelong
care of volunteer caretakers. Cats that are
ill or injured beyond recovery are not
returned to the environment.
Managing a Feral Colony
A volunteer caretaker is responsible for managing a group
of feral cats living together. The caretaker
regularly monitors cats and captures any who
need veterinary care, in addition to
trapping any newcomers to be sterilized and
vaccinated.
Coexisting with Feral Cats
TNR works because it breaks the cycle of reproduction and
enables feral cats to live in an environment
that provides food and shelter. They are
most content living in their established
territory.
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